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Thread: Accurizing an L1A1/FAL?

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    Legacy Member enbloc8's Avatar
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    Accurizing an L1A1/FAL?

    Were there any tricks employed to accurize L1A1s or FALs used for match competition?
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member gravityfan's Avatar
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    I would also welcome any information on accurizing, always looking for a way to shrink the groups (other than improving my crappy technique!).

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    Legacy Member tankhunter's Avatar
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    Check for MINIMUM play at the hinge screw joint of the Trig Mech housing. This is an axis point & DOES wear! Also, check for sideways play at the rear of the TMH where it locks up to the rear of the reciever. (We had an issue tool to remove this Play)
    You MUST remember, this rifle is basically TWO halves.
    As the foresight is on one half, & the back sight on the other. If you think about it, If there is excessive play betwen these two componants. Your sightline base IS affected! IE: if youve got movment, your sights WILL move also!

    There are a few Armourers tricks to eleiminate this play. BUT, as the weapon 'breaks' in half to field strip for cleaning after every shooting session. Play from wear in these areas WILL reoccur!

    All Service shooting teams fitted a 'Hythe Sight' (Double leaf back sight) as standard.
    This was because the appature hole was smaller than a 'Standard' second pattern 'Normal' sight.
    The theory was, a smaller appature. Then less room for error in sighting that you would get from a larger rear apperture opening.
    Last edited by tankhunter; 02-08-2012 at 02:55 AM.

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    Contributing Member muffett.2008's Avatar
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    A good barrel is a start, check to ensure it's not bent, check the rifling at the start of the leads for lifting of chrome, damage to lands, charring at the throat.
    Remove the flash eliminator and check for muzzle erosion, repair as required.
    Ensure that rear action lockup is firm with no twist to both parts allowed, ensure there is sufficient clearance on lock lever to allow for settling in.
    If possible, locate and fit early triangular wood handgrips.... rifle sits in open palm better than round laminates and doesn't heat up as much.
    Set your sling up as single point with no weight on front swivel.
    If possible, weigh out and batch your ammunition, use heavier weights for deliberate and lighter for rapids and snaps, use mixed for rundowns.
    Ensure rifle will operate on low gas setting - 3 or 4, repair and keep clean.
    PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.

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    Deceased arado's Avatar
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    I made one for target use by using a LMG heavy barrel in my build. I found the FAL standard accurate enough for my needs. 12" target @ 200 yards. Gary

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    Legacy Member enbloc8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhunter View Post
    Check for MINIMUM play at the hinge screw joint of the Trig Mech housing. This is an axis point & DOES wear! Also, check for sideways play at the rear of the TMH where it locks up to the rear of the reciever. (We had an issue tool to remove this Play)
    You MUST remember, this rifle is basically TWO halves.
    As the foresight is on one half, & the back sight on the other. If you think about it, If there is excessive play betwen these two componants. Your sightline base IS affected! IE: if youve got movment, your sights WILL move also!

    There are a few Armourers tricks to eleiminate this play. BUT, as the weapon 'breaks' in half to field strip for cleaning after every shooting session. Play from wear in these areas WILL reoccur!
    What's involved in removing this upper/lower receiver play? Vertical play on mine seems fine (new receiver and a good tight lock-up at the rear), but I can detect some sideways play at the pivot pin when the action is open. I've heard of putting a thin lock washer into the pivot pin assembly; is this effective? (Assuming that's even kosher for service rifle standards.)

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    Contributing Member muffett.2008's Avatar
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    You will not eliminate side movement while the action is open, some have reamed out and used larger pins to no avail.
    As it hinges on one side, torsional effects will always be there given the amount of leverage applied.
    The concern is when the action is closed. There should be no load on the pin at this point, the action should be locked up tight at the rear, with no side play there. There should be no flex in the action, if there is, it will be caused by incorrect lockup at the rear.

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    Legacy Member tankhunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by enbloc8 View Post
    What's involved in removing this upper/lower receiver play? Vertical play on mine seems fine (new receiver and a good tight lock-up at the rear), but I can detect some sideways play at the pivot pin when the action is open. I've heard of putting a thin lock washer into the pivot pin assembly; is this effective? (Assuming that's even kosher for service rifle standards.)
    You DONT want to tighten/squeeze the SIDES of the TMH at the axis screw holes. Because then you would bind/pinch the safety sear. This is an IMPORTANT Safety feature that prevents the Rifle from firing until it is safely locked & can handle the firing pressure from a 7.62mm Round (20 Tons + per square inch!)

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    In my opinion, you can improve accuracy by reducing the trigger weight. Don't know if over there is allowed, but here in Italyicon it is possible so I have installed a Falcon spring kit. Actually my trigger breaks at around 2kg

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    Contributing Member David TS's Avatar
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    There's an interesting thread over on FalFiles

    So Billabong will go to the National Match... - The FAL Files

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