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    Reloading Blanks for semi-autos

    Looking for as much information as possible. Mostly for getting G41/43 in 8x57 operable safely with blanks. Know about the dies, but need experienced input for loads and what to do for non-permanent B.F.A.s or equivalent.
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    BFA for G/K43 and Loads.

    Firstly, the BFA. It can be one of two different designs. The usual "Movie" type is a 3/8x24 UNF grub screw with an Allen hex socket (headless). The Muzzle has to be internally threaded 3/8UNF ( first clean out rifling with 8,5mm drill, (for about 1 inch deep) then counterbore with a 3/8 or 9,5mm drill for 1/2 inch; then thread with (a) a 3/8UNF taper tap, followed (b)by a 3/8UNF
    2nd or Bottoming tap; to prevent chips falling down into action, place some cotton waste or paper towel in bore about three inches in, to catch thread cutting compound and metal chips etc. Remember to clean out before fitting BFA.

    The BFA screw itself is a 1/2 inch long 3/8UNF Grub screw (uses a 3/16 Hex Allen Key).

    The screw needs to be "Vented"...for a G43 rifle, the vent must be close to 3/16 inch (max. size drill to still allow Hex socket to function)...I suggest one makes up a set of screws, from the max size , with downward steps by
    1/64ths or even using US Number series drills (or Metric decimal series---which is what we use here in Australiaicon)...we have a special "Try-set" of screws with vents at 0,1mm steps from 2mm up to 5mm, for all sorts of BFA calibrations.
    You may have to "anneal" the grub screws, as these are usually Hardened steel, and will break the small Vent drills...to anneal (soften) the screws, heat them up to cherry-red heat with a "Bernz-o-matic" propane torch, then allow to cool down slowly in still air; the other, more primitive way, is to put the screws in a small tin can, build up a good log fire, place the tin in the middle, and allow to burn all day/all night, and cool naturally...the can will probably be burnt through, but the screws will be "well softened"

    Now the Blanks: the loads that normally are used in a MG42, or Bolt action rifles, are too "strong" for a G43. (cause the rear of the bolt and covers to come adrift).

    A suitable start load is a 30/06 case, Full length sized to 7,9x57, but without Trimming. You then run the (extended neck) into a 7mm08 sizing die , just sufficient to reduce the extra 6mm of "neck" so that it is Less than 7,9mm Bullet diameter ( and the "long" blank will fit the chamber.)

    Load with 10 grains Flake Shotgun Powder. Star crimp ( CH type dies), and then run a test through the magazine for feeding and chambering.

    Test fire Without the BFA screw in place. Then put in the largest Vent diameter ( 3/16th ( 4.76mm) or even 5mm); Test fire again. Observe whether the rifle cycles properly or not ( ie, failure to cycle---reduce vent size; cycles but doesn't eject--reduce vet size; )
    Next, once you have reduced the vent size to a point where the cases eject reasonably close to the rifle, check the shell cases to see extent of opening of crimp...if crimp is fully or substantially fully open, then you are correctly calibrated.
    If the ejected cases are blackened, but crimp reclosed or crushed in, or gas bulges appear into case walls, then you have too much back pressure, go to a bigger diameter vent again.

    If you have tried vent diameters down to under 3,5mm and still not functioning correctly, then you have too little powder or the wrong powder...go to a slightly faster SG powder, or use a little bit more of the existing one (say 12 grains). Try whole process again...


    Rule One in Movie Blank firing of semi-Autos and MGs...Every gun is different (even guns of the same model);
    Rule Two: Murphy's Law reigns supreme.

    Lastly, if you are Lucky enough to have a G43 with a threaded Muzzle ( for GL and Schnalldampfer) then make a threaded sleeve cap, to fit with a BFA grubscrew...the Thread on G43 ( and StG44) rifles fitted with threaded muzzles is 14x1 MA (metric). Several of My MP/StG44 have screw-ON BFAs, only a mid-45 StG has a "screw-In" BFA (unthreaded Muzzle); My G43/Zf4 Sniper also has a threaded Muzzle ( for "snuffer").

    If you are using the rifle purely for Movie/Re-enactment Purposes, then you can leave the BFA in plce between usage(removing only to thoroughly clean after a film shoot); If you , like most re-enactors, also shoot Ball ammo through your G43,at the range, then a Rigid SPO must be adhered to.

    Place BFA In or On barrel only when you arrive at the re-enactment site.

    Remove when you do your final "clearing" for the day ( and "Cleaning") before going Home.

    NEVER but NEVER carry both Ball and Blank ammo together with you to a Re-enactment. (this is prohibited in most cases, anyway.)

    Always check the bore for obstruction (use cleaning rod) before loading and firing Ball ammo.

    A Ball round down a G43 fitted with any type of BFA will take the gun apart at both ends, (and your head as well).

    One other suggestion:- "Apfeltor" makes kits to retrofit G43s with a new Gas and Piston system to replace the Germanicon parts.
    If you are in Canadaicon or the USAicon it is a worthwhile acquisition.
    (for both Ball and Blank shooting).

    Regards, and Good blank firing.

    Doc AV
    AV Ballistics--Film Ordnance Services
    Brisbane Australia.

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    Couldn't ask for better information.

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