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Thread: Care for World War II Garand Sling

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  1. #31
    Amsdorf
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    OK, thanks, just ordered it. Will post before/after shots of the sling and Garandicon holster I'll be using it on.

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  3. #32
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    Ample studies have proven that leather dressings and saddle soaps, rather than preserving aged leather artifacts, actually hasten their deterioration. Oils in dressings are intended to provide internal lubrication for leather that is still in use; the oil allows the bundles of fibrils to slip over each other as leather is flexed, keeping it supple. Historic leather artifacts in a collection no longer need to be flexible, since they are no longer functional objects. Research has shown that many oils and fats used in leather dressings (neatsfoot oil, mink oil, lanolin) oxidize and harden over time, causing the leather to become even stiffer and brittle

    Museum of Florida History - Artifact Care Series #4

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  5. #33
    Amsdorf
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    OK, now I'm confused.

    Should, or shouldn't I, try to clean and treat the leather on my old sling and holster, or not?

  6. #34
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    If they are not real dirty forget the cleaning part. Even then Black Rock will rub some of the dirt away when you wipe off the product. Rick Bicon

  7. #35
    Amsdorf
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    They are a mess, at this point, so I'm going to give it a go.

  8. #36
    Legacy Member Tom Doniphon's Avatar
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    If you are going to use saddle soap to clean the leather, make sure it is a glycerine based saddle soap. Once you clean it, then start to let it dry, but while still slightly damp apply either a good light leather oil (not mink oil, not neats foot oil, etc.), and/or some Pecards Antique Leather Dressing. This method was taught to be my Richard Turner of Turner Slings. Just be aware that even using saddle soap may not clean the leather to what you desire.

    I agree with the other posters. If it is not that dirty, don't mess with it other than applying some Pecards.

  9. #37
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    Probably one of the rarest holsters around. When it was bought it had been in a bank safe deposit box for about 30 years. The leather had dried out to the extent that just touching it removed leather. Most of the original glaze was gone off the leather, and the leather fibers just rubbed off it. It was kept in a towel, but any time the towel was unwrapped it was covered in the leather fibers. It was given several treatments of Pecards ALD, and while it did nothing to restore it, it did stop the leather from just rubbing off on anything it touched, and is not stabilized.

    The pistol and rig belongs to a good friend, and he bought it before I had a digital camera, so no before pictures. If you look on page 29 of Luger: The Multi-National Pistol you can see the same type holster minus the stock board, and it is virtually the same condition.


  10. #38
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    Leather

    Leather is a real pain, and you shouldn't store unprotected guns in leather holsters. That's why I never went nuts trying to find the holster for any of my early auto pistols.
    Real men measure once and cut.

  11. #39
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    Bob I look at holsters as another type of collection in itself. I own books on them and it is easy to get caught up in that. It is like Bayonet collecting but a bit more expensive. Heck I have seen holster, magazines and sheaths go for more than the guns or knifes they hold because of loss or damage to the majority of them. Rick Bicon

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