Help in removing front trigger guard screw on my enfield no.4 mk1*

[bapsdds]

having a tough time removing the screw with a regular screw driver
any help is most appreciated

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[NRA]

oh boy you did it now

How far should I disassemble my Enfield before taking it to the range the 1st time?

[Dragonflydf]

having a tough time removing the screw with a regular screw driver
any help is most appreciated

Use the correct screw driver, then if that does not work, pack the slot with valve grinding compound for extra grip.

[tbonesmith]

having a tough time removing the screw with a regular screw driver
any help is most appreciated

What's the problem, a poor fitting screw driver, or has the screw been staked in position, by centre punching the trigger guard adjacent to the slot of the screw head, displacing some metal into the slot locking it in position?
1/ Get or grind a screwdriver that fits properly
2/ If it is staked and you need to get it out, gently pein the incursion back out of the slot and it should come out

[barbarossa]

It goes without saying that carefully locking down the rifle into a padded shop vice allows considerably more torque to be applied to a recalcitrant screw in comparison to trying to juggle the rifle and a screwdriver at the same time. Just a thought...

[villiers]

Impact screw driver and a sledge hammer ... (or maybe not).

[Capt Mil Coll]

I was told not to remove anything unless it was broken. Is the screw broken?

[gsimmons]

I was told: If all else fails force it. If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway.

[gsimmons]

No, seriously putting in a padded vice is a good idea.

[jmoore]

Whilst this is an odd screw to seize, stuck screws aren't uncommon to find in the gunsmithing trade. If you've the padded vise jaws and a drill press, place a bit in the chuck , bear down on the screw and use either a strap wrench or some other torque multipler to attempt to turn the screw whilst it's secured. (Power disconnected to the press, please!) Generally best done with two people.

Another very effective option is to use a well fitting driver that can withstand rapid medium light blows from a hammer whilst the driver is exerting torque. Also generally best done with two people unless you have some Khyber Pass skills. This technique works wonders when properly executed, but can disasterous if not! I find it most often useful when working on old Browning A5s with their skinny screw slots that won't take a lot of brute twisting force. (Both of these techniques were taught to me many moons ago by a master rifle builder who has far more experience than I on high-end sporters with ultra fancy stocks.)

Impact screw driver and a sledge hammer ... (or maybe not).

Sledge hammer is too heavy. And the imact driver tends to jump out of the screw slot due to it's internal springs, I guess. But the concept itself isn't bad!