Removing the butt from a No. 1 mk III*

[macdsc]

I'm trying to tear down and rebuild a sadly sporterized 1918 dated LSA manufactured No. 1 Mk III* and have immediately run into problems trying to remove the butt - I can get the screw to turn about 1/8th of a turn and that's it. I've tried a few gentle taps with a mallet to loosen things up - also tried to get a little penetrating oil in there too...no success...is there some trick I'm missing, or is this just a "brute strength & ignorance" game and I need to turn up the effort? (Kind of embarassing to say "I can't turn a screw" but I thought I'd better check to see if I'm out to lunch before I really go to town and break something - like my wrist...). Any views would be welcome...

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[Swagman]

macdsc;
Stratton's "British Enfield Rifles" Vol. 1 pg 77 Disassembly Notes:
"Because the threaded end of the stock bolt engages the stock bolt keeper plate, it is necessary to remove the fore-end before attempting to unscrew the stock bolt"
Hope this helps,
Swagman

[macdsc]

well...what a recruit thing to do...I have removed the forestock, and lo - the butt screw turned right out...thanks!

[Son]

well...what a recruit thing to do...I have removed the forestock, and lo - the butt screw turned right out...thanks!

If you are planning on re-using the foreend (I assume it's the bit that got sporterised, so hopefully not) take a good look at the back end of it. The plate that is inlet into the timber has a square in it that locks the corresponding square of the butt screw. If you managed to turn the butt screw at all, you will have spread the plate and started the wood splitting. Probably a good lesson to learn on an already cut down foreend- damn expensive if you break a good one! Also note- when you reassemble, the butt must go on first and the screw must be tightened so it is indexed correctly to take the foreend.

Don't hesitate to ask any questions you may have here- Plenty of people about only too happy to help. Good luck with the restoration, keep us updated of your progress.

Cheers,
Son.

[Claven2]

Grr... I just bought a nifty Volunteer Pattern MkIII (no star) BSA. It was in fantastic shape except for the ninny who had tried to remove the butt somewhere along the line and had spread the plate, splitting the forestock. Luckily the crack had not made it to the kingscrew (yet). Matching forestocks are rocking horse poop, so I repaired it and put in a new, unbuggered, tie-plate salvaged off a sporter forestock. I suspect he crack will open again, but the threaded brass re-inforcing rod had held the old forestock reasonably well together and I re-inforced the heck out of it with modern cyanoacrylate adhesive, so even if the crack re-opens, it souldn't spread.

Sure makes me angry when I see bubba had a go at the buttstock in such a manner.

[louthepou]

I've repaired a few stocks with the "West Epoxy System" glue. With a thorough cleaning of the wood (probably impossible in a wood crack), I've seen this glue do wonders. Just a thought,

Lou

[Claven2]

Oh, no worries, I always manage to fix them when I need to... just wish Bubba would stow it and go beat up on a Remington 710 or some other POS deserving of his attention!

[louthepou]

Oh, no worries, I always manage to fix them when I need to... just wish Bubba would stow it and go beat up on a Remington 710 or some other POS deserving of his attention!

Yeah!

[Jim K]

Also, when removing the butt stock, make SURE the screwdriver is in the slot. If it is alonside the bolt head, turning the driver will crack that stock.

P.S. If a long screwdriver is not available, try your car jack lug nut wrench; the pointed end (for removing the wheel disc) will usually work on the L-E stock bolt.

Jim