A Bit Off Topic, But Looking To Purchase Case Trimmer

[rangerbluedog]

I have a Hornady, but beware. If you use a different press, i.e. a RCBS, the RCBS shellholders will not work with a Hornady case trimmer. The hole in the other shell holders is smaller than the Hornady.
I was able to work around this by turning the O.D. of the anvil smaller on my Hornady case trimmer, but not everyone has this option.

[Tired Retired]

As far as the Lee and a cordless drill, I chock the shell holder into the drill. My cordless Balck and Decker will sit up on its battery. Lock the case into the shell holder and the hold the trimmer in right hand - activate drill with left fingers for second or two. The drill is sturdy enough to support the weight of the entire process.

As far as fitting the trimmer inside the case mouth, I always size and deprimer), the expand the mouth the correct amount, then trim. That gives me the correct size and it is consistent with everthing I size/cut/trim/reload.

[ChipS]

I think mine gives about 1.287" and it's not really adjustable unless you do some tinkering

I really appreciate this thread because I am just starting to reload carbine ammo (now have most equipment and components). I was looking at the Lee trimmer with the 'Zip Trim(?)' device but could not find specs on case trim length, which concerns me greatly. I am not an experienced reloader, but I am an engineer who understands and appreciates forces and numbers, and from what I have read almost every source says to trim to mimimum case length of 1.280" EVERY TIME the case is reloaded. This is cited as the standard factory ammo trim length and minimizes the posssibility of the bolt not going fully into battery on a short/dirty chamber before the round is fired. Firing with an unlocked bolt is by far my greatest fear with the carbine - period. Most of my carbines headspace a little long if anything, but a couuple will barely close on a "go" gage. I will make sure all of my cases mic 1.280" +/-.001" every time I relaod them. BTW, I do recall an old CSP Forum thread that advised the proper order of M1 Carbine case prep was full length resize, expand and then trim. This is what I plan to do unless I get experienced advice to contrary here. Thanks again.

[enfield303t]

Use a Lee and a friend(s) drill press. Load too many .223/.308 to use a hand crank and find the first trick was to get the correct rpm on the drill press. Fast, accurate and pretty easy.

[USGI]

I checked my reloading notes on .30 Carbine and the Lee trimmer gave me 1.285" the last time I used it to do a bunch - originally had noted it as 1.287". Minimum is supposed to be 1.280" and maximum 1.290". The Hogdon data I've been using lists trim length as 1.285" and that's been working OK in my guns. If you want to set it for 1.280" you can stone a few thousandths off the end of the pin. I've measured quite a bit of new carbine ammo and find that case length can vary quite a bit between brands, as well as from round to round in the same box. I noted before that some cases have to be expanded before the Lee trimmer will fit. My Lee trimmer for .30 Carbine measures .303" so it will go in before expanding. The 32-20 is one that won't go until you expand. If the Norma cases are thicker, you might have to expand first. I can't measure any change in case length caused by expanding, so I expand and flare after trimming. With the Lee dies I use, the expander also gives the case flare, so I like to do that all in one operation.

I have the same problem in holding onto the heavier cordless drills, so I sit on a stool with the drill balanced on one knee and work the shell holder with both hands. When I trim, I just squeeze the drill trigger with the thumb of the one hand and push the cutter into the case with the other hand - also use the simple Lee chamfer tool to very lightly take off the burrs before changing to the next case. Swapping cases goes really fast with the drill balanced on the knee while using both hands to swap. I place a carboard box or bucket on the floor to catch the shavings. I have tried using a drill press and it works OK on the larger cases, but when you are doing shorter ones, that revolving cutter gets too close for comfort to the hand holding onto the case - gloves help some, but it's too scary for me. Also, I had trouble with the pin on the end of the cutter putting a dent into whatever I was using to set the case on. The result of that is having cases come out shorter as you go.

Now looking to buy a new Die set for .45auto. Had used the Lee 3 die set for years but gave it to a friend a few months ago. Now trying to figure out the 3 vs. 4 die sets.
Charlie-painter777

I've got the Lee dies for .45ACP and the fourth one is a carbide crimp die, and it also insures the round will fit a standard chamber by smoothing out any buldges or irregularities caused by seating the bullet - insures the reliable chambering of your completed rounds. - Bob