What Kind Of Steyr M95 Carbine Is This?

[echo1]

Hi All,
Just picked up this Steyr Stutzen straight pull bolt. It's different than others I've seen in that there's no "M95" stamp, forearm cover, or the usual style of cocking piece. The barrel and reciever have different numbers. Bubba rubbed up against it and cut the stock just ahead of the forearm sling swivel (I gorilla guled it back together), ground off some of the stock sides at the butt plate, and screwed up a swivel hole. The action and safety function smoothly, trigger feels good but the furniture is a wreck but no cracks. The front band is a fit and seems to have been made that way. Any ideas on caliber, model, or date? I've had it apart and there are some markings on the underside of the reciever, barrel, and in the stock. I'm afraid I'm going to have to work the wood a little. Sorry for the bad picts. PAX

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[Patrick Chadwick]

What Kind Of Steyr M95 Carbine Is This?

None of them.

The backsight is in the style used on the M86-88-90 rifles and carbines.
Note also that the cocking piece is skinnier than on the M95 models.
- And the distinctive sling swivel on the left side of the wrist.
- And on the barrel ring you can see that the rifle was proofed at Wiener Neustadt in (18)90.

It is an Austrian "Repetier-Karabiner M.90"

As to the caliber - well you've got in in your hands, I haven't
So check it by one of the tried-and-tested methods.

But originally it was made for the 8mm M.90 Scharfe Patrone. This is a rimmed cartridge 8x50R which reached its final form in 1893 (8x50R-M93). For reloading one can use the normal "8mm" bullets as for the Mauser 8x57IS, which are much easier to find than those for the later 8x56-M30 cartridge. The case will, however, be a problem with an expensive solution - if you buy them. Or complex - if you form them from 7.62x54R cases.

The chambering dimensions require long, cylindrical bullets, as was typical for the first generation of smokeless-powder cartridges. For reasons that have been explained over and over again in these forums, boat-tail bullets are likely to perform poorly, FMJ spire-points somewhat better, and long cylindrical bullets best. The chambers were cut for the long bullets, and no amount of tuning will provide a magic recipe to get round that.

Get it going again - it should produce noticeably less recoil than an 8x57IS or 8x56 type!

[Patrick Chadwick]

I'm afraid I'm going to have to work the wood a little.

An appeal to woodworking common sense! The carbine looks as if it is worth refurbishing. The stock wood is hard walnut, and has had more than 120 years to reach its present stable state. You can destroy that dimensional stability in minutes by using one of the drastic methods that have been described elsewhere (soak in caustic soda bath - slather with oven cleaner - which is about the same thing - put in dish washer - dry in sun or bake in oven etc). All methods that would make a proper antiques restorer twitch, and are inappropriate for a precision tool - which is what you want a rifle to be.

Do not use those Quick&Dirty methods. Use Simple, Slow, Safe, and Satisfying, as decribed here:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....+Rolling+Block

and following sections

Read, apply, enjoy!

[jmoore]

Scarce variant! I've been after an example of it's predecessor for umpty-eleven years. And this version? Haven't run across one either.

[Salt Flat]

Echo 1, I think most of the stock looks great as is. My vote would be to just spot stain and finish the damaged areas to match the rest of the stock as closely as possible. Salt Flat