Krag Repair Forend

[no4mk1t]

Has anyone used the repair forend that S&S sells to un-Bubba a cut down forend?
Got a nice 1898 that I'm wanting to return to issue configuration. Just wondering if this is the way to go or just order a new stock.

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[Salt Flat]

No.4, I haven't used the S&S piece but I have made several by hand. The hardest part is to get the stain and finish to match the stock. Also, do you have the upper and lower bands? They are getting pretty expensive. Personally I would prefer saving the original stock by adding forearm over buying a complete reproduction. Below are a few pictures of one that I did a couple years ago. Salt Flat

[no4mk1t]

All I'm missing is the stacking swivel and screw. Found the upper band screw at a gun show this past w/e. Had an upper band in a box of junk I got 20 years ago, so it worked out. Same box also has several lower bands in it too.
Did you secure the repair end to the stock with dowels/epoxy, or some other method?
What's the best bet for matching the finish?

Thanks,
No4

[browningautorifle]

The Restorer's Corner This forum contains not only info on what you're trying to do but other individuals that do this too. Louthepo has done some fine restorations for instance. Saltflat's got one that I'd love to have. Looks like there was a plate on the side of the stock at one point for a presentation...

[Salt Flat]

No. 4, The best way to match the stain color is to experiment with some scraps of wood.
I posted the following info on the Carcano forum:

I have made and spliced many forends onto cut down military stocks (mostly 1903 Springfields). Here are the steps I use. Sorry if it's alittle long.
1) Rough cut fore end piece, leave 1/4 all the way around.
2) Layout barrel channel onto the block of wood. Use an ulltra fine black sharpie for layout.
3) Cut the Barrel channel. Cut it a shade deeper than you need. You can sand any excess off later. I use a milling machine but careful chiseling and scraping will work. Old lipstick can be rubbed on the barrel which will show high spots during trial fitting. work slowly. The fit upto the barrel will show on the carcano because the handguard doesn't cover the forestock.
4) Square up the joint area on both the stock and forestock piece. This should be right in the middle of the rear band. (I like the ultra thin japanese type hand wood sawsfor this.). Then fit them up tight. Layout and center punch both pieces for 1/4 inch steel rod. Make the rod about 2-3 inches long and drill the wood pieces for a clearance fit. Remember you have a band screw going crosswise all the way through the stock at this joint so make sure you position the rod so that the band screw will clear it.
5) Position the forepiece on the stock and use the sharpie to mark the forepiece around joint. This will be the shape of the band. Now you can rough shape the contourso n the sides and bottom.
6) Put some parting agent (Simonize wax or fiberglass release agent) on the barrel in the area where the joint will be glued so the stock doesn't stick to the barrel.
7) Mix up some epoxy, fill the holes. slide the pieces together and clamp the forepiece to the barrel. Or You can use masking or duct tape to hold it in place. I like the epoxy that is more like a gel as it won't drip out.
8) After cure take it all apart. now you can trim the top surface in a flat plane to match the back top edge of the barrel channel.
9) Fit the rear band while shaping the contours a little closer. I like using a horseshoe rasp which has both rasp and double cut surfaces. Rasp for the roughing , double cut for smothing when you get close to finishing.
10) Fit the nosecap. This will be the hardest part. Draw the side shape onto the wood using the nosecap as a template. Use small carving type chisels. Lots of trial fitting. Drive the cap on a little at a time as you go with a mallet. Be careful because you can split the wood.
11) Finish the contouring and fairing, sand and finish.
Good Luck! Salt Flat
I think my Krag shown in the photos shows that a replacement forearm can be matched up pretty good.

[Salt Flat]

BAR, Yes, I think there was some sort of paper placard glued to the buttstock. I bought the rifle quite a while ago at a gun show. The fore end was cut just in front of the lower band and the handguard was missing. Luckily the sights and barrel weren't messed with. Also I forgot to mention that in addition to the forend , I also made the handguard. Salt Flat

[M2phil]

No4Mk1T, To answer your question, I have used several of the S&S krag replacement forends and they are just fine. They're cut just behind the lower band so you have plenty of wood to work with. You'll have to do some sanding/filing to get the barrel channel inlet and the area under the upper band right, but not too much work there. Also you'll have to drill the hole for the upper band screw. Sounds like more work than it is, really. I fitted mine (after measuring twice and cutting once etc.) by removing the wood between the air chambers (lightening cuts) at the bottom of the barrel channel at the splice, and fitting a tight block of walnut, gluing it in place with Gorilla glue. You could put a concave shape on the ends of the block so the air chambers look right, but I didn't bother as it wouldn't be seen when the piece is assembled.
Matched the color using several successive coats of diluted Fiebing's Medium Brown leather dye. After that, some BLO, and it came out pretty darn close.
Hope this helps.

[gtodan]

You fellas all offer good advice, Thanks. Got a project just like it to work on.

N04, there is plenty of experience with this type of thing on this website as well.

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