A big crack, how would an armour repair this?

[ssj]

Placing the beech forestock back against my chest with the muzzle end furthest away and looking down. From the left front curve of the mag well running forward about 20~25mm along the line of the trigger guard slot I have a vertical crack right through. Underneath the crack runs along the left side of the trigger guard cutout/slot.

So I obviously need to repair this. My thought was to rout out a 6mm slot right along the crack until I get to uncracked wood. Then using a flat piece of 6mm wood (I have a Dewalt thicknesiser planner, so I can make control thickness very accurately) round one edge and glue it in using a rifle bedding compound. I will then have to route open the trigger guard slot back to its original width.

I cant see any other way to repair this but Im all ears.

The thing is do I,

a) I leave this as, its sufficient a repair and invisible.

b) Insert a no10 or no12 brass screw from the left side right through the stock and patch so the screw is in between the mag well and the front trigger guard hole. Then cut off the brass head so it looks like the brass thread type repair done to the No1 mk3.

c) Insert an 8 or 10mm beech dowel as b) and sand that flat.

It looks like the front trigger guard screw collar has been shortened way too much and this has resulted in crushing the wood between the guard and receiver and hence I suspect the crack. I suspect I'll have to rout out the trigger guard slot at the front and insert a new flat piece to build the wood back up, and/or use bedding compound, and I'll need a new collar. (have to read up on fitting that right....once Ive found the bit I read...

Information

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[Maple_Leaf_Eh]

You will never get an good a surface as the cracked original. I would explore removing the oils and grime, then after consultation with a good woodworker, glue the crack shut. You are on the right track with brass fasteners. In my experience, brass is much less torque tolerant than steel. Make the hole as close to the fastener's diameter as you can. Then as you turn it in, be mindful that you will break something at the worst time. The part will tell you when you've given it too much twist.

[Peter Laidler]

I can't quite picture your crack - if you'll excuse the phrase - but it seems to be similar to one that was explained some weeks ago. Find the END of the crack and drill a small hole through it. This will stress relieve the end of the crack and prevent it splitting any further (hopefully..... I say that it'll stress relieve it but some say that is a load of twaddle. I accept this opinion but still do it anyway although when I do, I peg the hole up afterwards anyway!)) Then open up the crack and insert some high quality aircraft spec wood adhesive and squeeze it into the crack......... Go on, use your finger to pressurise it deep into the crack.......... then do it some more so that it is fully impregnated with glue. Now clamp the crack together and leave it for 24 hours or whatever it says on the tin!

Before you make good, make yourself some slightly tapered oak plugs/pegs, about 3/16"-4mm or so in dia tapering. Drill suitable holes, glue and knock pegs in and leave for another 24 hours. Then make good.

We used to do this sort of job every day, day in and day out. The Indians use wood screws like we used to but later we used hardwood pegs just like I'm suggesting you do. I've got a wood patched and pegged No4T fore-end that was done so long ago, probably in the 50's or 60's and the rifle has been used and abused as a slave for testing the soundness of repaired telescopes ever since! Fired every week with the recoil mode set to hard and still going strong

As much as I hate being contrary to anyone, might I suggest that the only way you will glue brass to wood is with epoxy and even then, shall I tell you a little secret? It ain't a good bond nor will it ever be! Then to take this further, why mix when you can use wood - as armourers and furniture makers have been doing since pontius was a pilot!

This is just my opinion and I put my faith in modern wood adhesive and not the old hot animal glue.

[WarPig1976]

Really need some pictures on this one to help. Routers/Planners are bit overboard to fix a cracked stock... Yes, need pictures..

[ssj]

Re: hole drilling, drilling one in metal or glass makes sense as the stress / fracture point is removed. For wood the crack is following a line of weakness in the grain IMHO, so at first glance I cant say its that good just to do the hole. Filling the hole with a plug/dowel with good glue, yes OK that makes sense. My experience with trying to glue a crack in wood is often you cant get enough glue into the length of the crack, but I could try this and if it comes back well then rout it out.

I will go the wood peg/dowel route, I'd prefer that to brass.

I'd supply a picture but I dont have a working camera any more.

PS I think this pic and description of removing the ishy screw is pretty good except the crack I have hasnt got past the front trigger guard screw hole, yet.

http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...screwfix/5.jpg

So I was going to put the dowel in about 1inch further back between the guard screw hole and the mag well.

[ssj]

Peter,

Ive now dug (well digging) through your repair articles and I can see a dowel from the side was a common repair technique, so I will dowel, thanks.

Good articles btw, thanks they help no end....in terms of style as well as how.

[Roadkingtrax]

Peter,

Ive now dug (well digging) through your repair articles and I can see a dowel from the side was a common repair technique, so I will dowel, thanks.

Good articles btw, thanks they help no end....in terms of style as well as how.

For the benefit of the thread (and me ) Can you please link the article that referred to wood repairs? Happy you have a good fix in the works.

[ssj]

Seems Im not the only one felling a bit lost...

This is the screen shot of what I will be doing, except Im about 1inch 1 1/4inch further back.

http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...screwfix/5.jpg

comes from here,

Milsurps Knowledge Library - GETTING RID OF YOUR ‘Ishy’ Screw (by Peter Laidler)

Milsurps Knowledge Library - Worn draws in your No1, 4 or 5 fore-end .... (by Peter Laidler)

Im getting more from the pics than the words.

[Father Ted]

A lot of woodworking type stores that sell the good glues also sell different size syringes for glueing cracks and chair repairs. I followed mr. Laidlers tutorials on replacing draws and can't thank him enough for his witty blow by blow instructions and photos.
Cheers

[muffett.2008]

I reckon he's just getting to be a cranky old bugger since he retired.