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Thread: Stocking a no4 mk2 for target shooting 300, 500 and 600m

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    Stocking a no4 mk2 for target shooting 300, 500 and 600m

    Im busy digging through this site...Lots of good info but sometimes its a bit confusing.

    I want to setup my gun to shoot at the above ranges, there seems to be at least 3 different ways. Does anyone have a suggestion as the one thats most likely too best suit the 500 and 600m ranges?

    Im also curious on something else, is there a definitive piece of work on how a no4 mk1 (T) was stocked? ie was more work was done to its stock/wood than an "as issued" rifle and if so what? Its probably me but I cant seem to find something authoritive. Whatever the exact setup this would seem to be the benchmark that other mods were set against.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    I'll let you into a little secret SSJ. After the war, there was a series of trials to see what would be the optimum fitting of the fore-end for sniper rifles. And guess what.....? NONE of the other methods used, offered or tried during the trial EVER out performed a properly stocked up No4T. So if you want my simple but honest opinion, guess what I'll be saying.

    Fuurther to that. There were several relaxations to the fitting of fore-ends to allow for shortages and the lack of good wood etc etc but these relaxations were NEVER allowed for the No4T. And I say that if it's good and accurate enough for a sniper who really NEEDS a good and accurate rifle, then it's good enough for a target shooter.

    Only my humble 2c opinion of course

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    Sounds like the book Im reading. Though I still have not found the "T" method, (or maybe im blind to it in front of me) which yes is probably going to be good enough, certainly for my humble shooting talents.

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    The EMER/MoD method of fore-end fitting has been written here somewhere and been discussed until the cows come home. You'll just need to trawl through the forum until it crops up

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    i tryed middle bedding, center bedding. But none of these methods is better than military barrel bedding . If you're lucky one barrel bedding pattern leads to the same - good- results. Middle bedding and center bedding would be user friendly if you use a sling to shoot, a very tensioned sling. Because i shoot from a front rest i prefer to use military bedding obtaining good accuracy. But military bedding is good if you use a sling also. So...do not deviate from kosher.

    For 2 years a tested on range with the same round different barrel bedding. Today 2 years means " the Infinity" ... but think: No.4 rifle has been produced in millions , many armourers tried, examineted and shot it. In different Countries. Probably they gained much experience in 20 years service than now today we could gain testing our rifle at our local range. So, do not deviate from approved bedding method as a rule of thumb.

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    i was reading those articles and if you can move the muzzle around where the front band is, this is bad? forgive my stupidity on this..

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    The muzzle must contact the wood 2 " at least, and a weight of 3 to 7 pounds is required to free the muzzle from the fore end.
    You can simply test it. First disassemble the rifle and put a paper sheet where muzzle - fore end contact will be, two inch behind- and let the paper sheet in place. Then reassemble the rifle paying attention paper sheet rests on the same place you located it.
    After that test the weight required to free the paper sheet forced betweeen barrel and fore end. To do that you could use a fishing scale or different , weight known bottles secured to the muzzle. When paper sheet is free from contact read the weight. It must be between 3 and 7 pounds.

    Watch these videos, there's the first one:




    Before interesting about barrel bedding, start understanding wrist/ fore end contact, draws bearing and reparing, main screw and collar, knox form( or chamber area, it's the same). You could have a perfect bedded barrel rifle, but a poor shooter, if you do not check , understand and repair the above mentioned points.

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    Thanks bow (el al), and yes I have to sus all the above. My "new" (un-issued) forend arrived yesterday, so I have to follow Peter's howto to fit it, though first I have to "FTR" it from a no4 mk1 to a no4 mk1/2. I didnt want to simply start in case info had been superceeded.

    Parashooter yes peter's doc is what's on my woodwork bench next to the gun and new stock.

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