What to use for dried out leather?

[WarPig1976]

This isn't a military article but I need some help.
I have my Grandfathers Harley Davidson kidney belt from the early 30's. They were used to hold your insides together before anybody thought shocks would maybe be a good thing to put on a motorcycle!! It's dried and cracking, the straps are broken. I've tried commercial conditioners, they don't work. Any advice??

Information

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[browningautorifle]

Most of the guys here will recommend Pickard's leather treatment I think, it will restore the leather to supple and not promote decay.

[WarPig1976]

Ordered and on the way!! Thank you..

[Peter Laidler]

My local leather shop here, who also recondition saddles etc etc say that they just dunk the old stuff in a lanolin tank. I have taken stuff there and it seems to work. All my leather bondage gear is now soft and supple

[gew8805]

I'm sorry Jim, I have to disagree. Pecards is one of the worst things you can put on leather, it contains petroleum distillates which will damage leather. Peter's recommendation of lanolin is good and personally I will recommend nothing but pure neatsfoot oil, which has been used for hundreds of years and still is, both in tanning and preserving leather. WarPig, be careful of neatsfoot oil compound which is commonly available, it, like Pecards, contains petroleum products and will damage leather so, like Pecards, you do not want it. Use the pure neatsfoot oil only. Pure is harder to find and more expensive but is worth it in the long run.

Too bad that your grandfather and everyone since allowed the leather in the kidney belt to dry out, it is permanently damaged now and all that can be done is lightly apply natural products - lanolin or neatsfoot oil - in small doses until you are satisfied with the flexibility - not softness - of the leather. Do this after cleaning with a good quality saddle soap. Applying anything to a dirty item will only do more damage. When the belt is almost dry from the cleaning, apply the oil to the flesh side (that's the rough side) and you will have done all you can. After the treatment, do what should have been done for the last 80 years; keep it clean and at a comfortable temperature and in a consistent humidity of 60 - 70% and do not allow it to sit in direct sunlight for extended periods. A well ventilated room is essential. If you box it up for storage, be sure to avoid acidic paper and store in the above temperature/humidity conditions.

Remember to everything in stages, don't drown the leather when you apply the oil, it will clog the dried out pores and cells causing them to swell in their damaged state and further damage the item.

Remember, keep Pecards, mink oil and other goops like snow seal for your work boots and other user grade items, they all do fine for those things but should not be used on items you want to preserve and pass on to others who come after you.

Thanks goodness we seem to finally be getting away from the claims that used to be made for Pecards, that "it is used by the Smithsonian Institution" and other museums - it most certainly is not. If you want to know what real museums and antique curators/collectors actually do with leather to be preserved see:

http://www.nps.gov/history/museum/pu...pendix%20S.pdf

[Patrick Chadwick]

Many thanks Gew8805 for the first comprehensive paper I have ever seen on museum-level conservation of leather. OK, so maybe I live a sheltered existence, but when I have the chance I converse with curators about their methods, and this paper confirms what I had received as verbal advice - namely that leather inevitably degenerates, and all you can do is make it happen as slowly as possible. There just is no way of bringing it back to new condition, so that it can be subjected to normal use.

In other words, if you are an active shooter, like me, actively using old leather artefacts is a no-no, as it just hastens their destruction. And all the oils and greases in the world will not help. I enjoy shooting with (up to) 200-year old guns, provided the wood and metal are still fit for the job, but the slings, cases etc. are all recent or replica items that you just have to view as "long-term consumable" items that may last decades, but not centuries. I have, for instance, an original Rifle Brigade (black leather) holster for the Webley, but the revolver "lives" in a modern canvas case and the original holster is stored out of the light.

[WarPig1976]

Many thanks fellas,
I'm a working man so the Pecards will get used, I'll google neatsfoot and order some too, Many thanks!!
My grandmother kept the belt in her closet for decades nobody was aware of it. When she passed low and behold there it was, I knew right away what it was and couldn't believe it. I have pictures of Pop wearing that belt at 19yrs old sitting on his brand new 1937 knuckle head. Both my Grandparents were Deaf mutes, he would shift gears by feel only!! I bet he beat that bike like it owned him money...LoL... Thanks again..

Peter, it's good to know I'm not the only one wearing a gimp mask!!....

[arado]

my 03 sling made in 1917 is as new. I use waxoyl. I use it on my leather jacket, shoes and the seats in my MB cars. I mix the product 50/50 with oil paint thinner. put it in a hand sprayer, spray it on and walk away. The thinner evaporates leaving a thin film of wax. my tools, cars, motorcycles are rust free. I clean my guns with it after shooting. my guns are perfect. steel, wood and leather. It also lubricates.

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

Not an expert but I have had good results with anhydrous lanolin which can be purchased at any pharmacy/apothacary in one pound jars. Great for chapped hands as well.

[gew8805]

I guess you are using their Professional Rubber and Vinyl Dressing , right? Interesting, neither it (nor anything else they make) is recommended for leather. Do they make something I'm missing?

Paint thinner?

On leather? Poor leather....

Everyone has different ways of doing things. Good luck.

Patrick, I'm glad you found that info from the NPS useful.