No4 draws angle.

[ssj]

From Peter L's article, "and the similarly downward angle of the draws is 74 degrees*"

Im about to make a draws out of Engish Ash (best wood I have) so I will be cutting a block with an accurate chop saw.

Also normally the end grain faces the draws, but I think I read somewhere that for best results use a non grain face?

Has anyone done the copper block mod on a no4 aka the no1 mk3* for target work? I take it its not an as issued thing though?

Tempted to go that way....easy to shim until nicely tight.

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[ssj]

From Peter L's article, "and the similarly downward angle of the draws is 74 degrees*"

Im about to make a draws out of Engish Ash (best wood I have) so I will be cutting a block with an accurate chop saw.

Also normally the end grain faces the draws, but I think I read somewhere that for best results use a non grain face?

Has anyone done the copper block mod on a no4 aka the no1 mk3* for target work? I take it its not an as issued thing though?

Tempted to go that way....easy to shim until nicely tight.

My 2/52 no4 mk2 appears to be 75 on the draws and 81 deg on the wrist using the reciever base line as the datum. Is the forend wood angle different?

[Peter Laidler]

Just GENTLY cut the draws to suit the rifle with a sharp chisel when you are fitting the fore-end! All this talk about angles of this that and the other is just complicating things - as you'll see from the two different angles computed above!

And yes, the 'with the grain' wood facing the draws is better than end grain any day!

[bow]

Last rifle i tried to restore, i chose a bad patch : wood grain was almost perpendicular to the fore end. Results: when i used the chisel, wood broke along the grain withouth follow the draws angle. In addition keep in mind that end grain takes moisture from air and offers the worst strenght and conistency a pice of lumber can offer. In order to fit the draws correctly i had to use a rasp instead of a chisel and i had to work many hours. Using a chisel is fast and accurate. I slightly force the fore end to the rifle when i reassemle it so the sear lugs will cut away very little wood at a time.

[ssj]

Thanks, Im going to make a pine patch I think to start with to practice....I was thinking of a rasp....im in no hurry.....I also have some very hard bamboo flooring I could use instead of the ash....its not good to chisel but sands/rasps/files fine.

[jmoore]

It occurs to me that a scaper would be the best tool for removing very small amounts of wood (as well as metal.) I have made them from old files, usually by surface grinding the teeth away and then shaping the front end to suit. (The surface grinding part sn't required, it just looks prettier and definitively establishes the usage change.) Won't dig in and is easily resharpened.

[bow]

Very very interesting jmoore. What bevel angle do you grind at the front edge?

[Simon P]

I made up a couple of steel gauges so that when I glue & dowel the wood in for the new draws I use the gauges to cut the new inserts to the correct profile then finish off to suit the rifle.

I have been using Ash for the new draws & also turn up small dowels using the same ash and also dowel them in place.

[jmoore]

What bevel angle do you grind at the front edge?

Usually eyeball to about 90° but sometimes 5 or ten degrees off ninety helps. Depends on the material. I've "scraped in" worn L42a1 pads using a very small tool. You can peel off half tenths in localized spots without trouble when working with steel.

[bow]

Usually eyeball to about 90° but sometimes 5 or ten degrees off ninety helps. Depends on the material. I've "scraped in" worn L42a1 pads using a very small tool. You can peel off half tenths in localized spots without trouble when working with steel.

Only scraper i know are built to ssmooth wood.. Could you post a photo of your scrapers, file iron made??

---------- Post added at 09:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38 AM ----------

I can't understand how you built them because i have in mind scraper plane or card scraper. Scraper plane has an high sitting angle and due to its dimensions cannot be used in the draws area. The same thing applies to card scraper. Have the scraper an hook with the bevel built in, something like a gillette razor blade?