Capt. Laidler assistance please

[CINDERS]

I have a BSA Shirley No.4 T and the King Screw (yep I'm an Aussie) that was with the rifle even done up tight as the action still rocked when the barrel was lifted. So change of screw = still get minor just felt receiver movement but may as well be 6 feet as MOA @100m is @ 10".
Checked the top hand guard not touching though it does not appear to have the field mod punch marks on the band as per your fitting up on stocks in archives.
Question I know they are supposed to have @5-7lbs up lift so could the trigger guard collar be to long!
The stock though seasoned can this shrink causing the take up from the King screw to be bottoming out and not pulling the action down as I fail to see H & H goofing this rifle up in 1944.
I do not know its history save that it was a display item for 50 years it gauges at .302 and the bore is mirror (bore scoped) 5 land it is no use me using it again until I can get the bedding sorted.
As the scope may be ok even if it does hav 2 crows on a wire!
Next is the back mounting screw on the scope bracket I have 2 new washes as the others are looking a tad squished, I can get the front one out but the back one binds up after a couple of turns (it is off the rifle of course).
I am hesitant to give it curry as they do as you advised snap and that would make me just sook real bad and cost a fair bit to get remedied.
I look forward to yours or the forums assistance in these matters.

Information

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[Peter Laidler]

You're talking about a king screw and it doesn't feature in an Armourers vocabulary. Enlighten me first........ If it is a peculiarly Australian thing, then don't forget that I was in the Australian Army too, doing the same job and we didn't use it there either.

You need to read up an article all about fitting the collar is all that I'm going to say as I don't want to go through it all again.

Sometimes one of the rearmost thumbscrew threads was staked to make sure that the crunchies didn't remove the thumbscrews fully and loose them - as they inevitably would. If you want to remove it, then find the ding and carefully file it out. Or just use a bit of brute force. If you break/shear it, then that's the price you pay for forgetting the phrase '....if it ain't broke, don't fix it!'

[ActionYobbo]

king screw = the big screw at the front of the trigger guard that is blamed for bad accuracy if it no tight

[CINDERS]

I can only go on what personnel call it and my only endeavour was to try and get a piece of history doing a bit better that a 10"group at 100m and by a process of elimination start where I noted a problem, I like many others whom visit this forum and site depend on the input and guidance from those whose experience on these matters far outweighs what has been put into text, naturaly gained experience by trial and error or what works in the field.
I am sorry if I have offended any one by my terminology or lack of knowledge all I want to do is to get my $7000.ooAU (which is what I paid for it) No.4 T shooting like it should when it left the H & H factory sometime between Sept - Dec 1944

[Badger]

There's some very good reading on Jay Currah's site under:

Marksmanship Information (click here)

Regards,
Doug

[gsimmons]

Peter has articles on both fitting the collar and fitting a fore-end.

[Peter Laidler]

It's not that Cinders and don't think for even one minute that you have insulted me. I'm just keen that we're all singing from the same hymn sheet and use terminology that evgeryone can understand. I understand that other forums might differ, but me and you ain't on one of them. And everyone in the Commonwealth world (is there really another civilised world outside the Commonwealth I'm bound to ask.....?) understand what the front trigger guard screw is.

Fitting the fore-end and setting up the collar and subsequently locking it all down is all explained as stated by GSimmonds. BUT, it seems to me that if you can rock your fore-end up/down/back/forth that you might have what we call worn-draws - if you'll excuse the phrase.

Like I said earlier. Other more knowledgeable forums might call the worn draws problem something else but at least I try. Can I assume that the tele bracket thumbscrew answer was as it was?

[Ridolpho]

CINDERS: You should try to upload some photos as I'm sure everyone here would love to see your "T". All I can add is to advise extreme patience in any significant repairs you may attempt. If, for example, your draws need repair don't make your valuable "T" the first one you try! All the guidance and advice you need is here on this wonderful forum but "practice makes perfect".

Ridolpho

[CINDERS]

Cheers for that ppl I have had of late some really bad experiences with rifles brought in good faith paid up front only to find that things were not quite cochre in fact a brand new weapon I purchase from a particular dealer in a very small island off the coast of the southern tip of Au was a nightmare, a replica M-40 faithfull repro right down to the G prefix action and Redfield 3-9 Tombstone reticuled scope yep brand new! I paid cash and waited 4 months for it to arrive.
Well pulled it down and bore scoped it at my guny's shop,
Chatter marks on the 11 degree crown chipped land as well
Barrel had signs of rust 1.5" from the muzzle did not proceed as that was enough.
Bedding was circumspect
Pillars were not contacting the action
Stock was split in front of the trigger hole and floor plate recesses obviously pulled down to hard when bedding it
Bedding material stuck to bottom of action
Stock scratched from sling buckle
Bolt not lapped.

It cost me money for him to take it back, I then brought a really beautiful weapon G series Rem 700 and it was listed as new but was used and it had been poorly stored with a rusty barrel in places I stuck with it as it has grouped 5 shots 1.5"at 300M with 4 consecutive rounds in 1" as witnessed by the marker.
So I am starting to get the faith back but it has been a long road.....

[tbonesmith]

Here is the article peter did on stocking up the forend:
http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...0correctly.pdf

Here is another:
Milsurps Knowledge Library - Worn draws in your No1, 4 or 5 fore-end .... (by Peter Laidler)

There are numerous thread covering this in "The Restorers Corner":
Military Surplus Collectors Forums

Have a look there and see what has been put up. It is a very difficult little bit of timber fitting to get it right.