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Thread: Looking to complete your No4 or L42 CES? (by Peter Laidler)

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  1. #11
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    Peter, I was always under the impression that the CGB system was just used on kit for which there was no UKicon equivalent - in other words for items of equipment where the Canadians went off down their own route to develop & then adopt it. Hence the exact same part could not be found in the UK system. The CNo32 Mk1A & CNo32 Mk4 (CNo67) are a couple of examples - yet a CNo32 Mk1, 2 or 3 would be expected to bear a 'COS' part number - the direct Canadianicon equivalent to our 'OS'.................let me know if I've screwed up!

    Maybe the 'C' in 'CGB' stands for 'contrary'!!!

    ATB

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  3. #12
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    A Canadianicon Ordnance Corps Major at Shrivenham told me about the CGB being an 'out on a limb' Ordnance prefix where the kit didn't match our spec - which if it did, was given a standard V5 or B1 type Ordnance prefix. But Contract Gt Britan it wasn't - because some of it definately WASN'T made or for any contract with Gt Britainicon!

    So what you're saying is correct. Many of these CGB part nukbners were still i8n the system until ther were superceded by the 13 figure NSN part numbvers. But even then, the Ordnance prefixes such as V5, C1 or LV6 etc etc remained. Which defeated the object really!

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    Just been asked a GOOD question about these binos. When I focus the image with the left and right ocular barrel adjusting collars, the reticle lines (if you've got a pair where they're still intact.....) are slightly out of focus. What can he do he asks.......

    The real answer is that the user really can't do a lot! But help is at hand because the binos are focussable and by default, not everyones eyes are a) perfect and b) the same! The bible says that to cater for this, if the reticle pattern comes into focus within 2 dioptres, or roughly speaking +2 or -2 either side of the zero mark on the ocular focussing collar then all is well.

    The EMER goes on to clarify this situation by saying that due to the optical whatsisnames and the this that and the others and the blah blah....... you get my drift, then an accurate reading can still be translated from a slightly out-of-focus reticle pattern.

    So, reticle out of focus for you while image is IN focus? Then if it comes into focus within + or - 2 dioptres, that's good enough
    Last edited by Peter Laidler; 12-27-2013 at 10:42 AM. Reason: spellig misteaaks

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    Sorry to hit you with another question Peter, but a friend of mine has a very nice pair of the No2 issue bino's, but for the fact that one of the screws is missing that hold the end cover plates in position. A couple are also chewed up, so he's keen to get some new replacements if they are available. Presumably they are a standard UKicon thread of the era - one of the BA's presumably?? Any help with details would be most welcome. I've got all the BA taps & dies up to 10BA so if the worst comes to the worst I s'pose I could make some for him........

    Any suggestions?

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  10. #15
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    Ah...., good question DRP. These screws are the biggest killers of these binos. Or, rather, the lack of a screw thread inside the binos is the biggest killer. The casings are cast from some dire sintered alloy with the shear strength of zilch and if by chance in the past someone has inserted a 6BA STEEL threaded screw, then it's a fair bet that it has by now pulled the thread out with it. The screws MUST be brass. You COULD get away with trying a deeper screwed shaft on a 6BA screw that might engage the thread that MIGHT be lurking deeper, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

    Obviously with a contract of some 26,000 pairs from the primary makers there wasn't a shortage of No2 binos and we'd just scrap Z/BER them if the screw threads strip. An alternative would be to over-bore out the stripped thread and insert a pre-drilled/threaded insert but there ain't a lot of room. Or just re-tap to 4 (or 5?)BA and see.

    Towards the end of their lives roundhead screws instead of the machine heads were the norm through Ordnance.

    Always use lashings of graphite on the screws too, including the ocular barrels and OG bush/housing screws. But in truth, if I was looking at a pair with the cover plate screws missing then I'd try a screw first but if the thread was stripped then I'd leave them WELL alone.........

    Sorry for answering in a roundabout way but try longer screws in the first place and see where you get.

    Added later. Oooooooooops! Total contract for No2 Binos was 56,000 (and not 26,000). Kershaw alone was to provide 25,000

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  12. #16
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    Thanks Peter. I'll probably end up doing it for him once he sees what you've said in the thread!

    ATVB

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    I see there's a nice pair of No2 bino's on 'that auction site' at this very moment - due to end in a few hours. Not mine (I'm not even a CES freak), but if anyone out there is CES conscious.......now's the chance. I think the entry number is 171205352820. I'm afraid I'm on the remedial table when it comes to IT skills & I haven't yet learnt how to post a direct link.

  14. #18
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    You're right DRP................. There's an example of, well....., whatever it is there must be an EU law against it! Even taking quotes from this very forum. But hey ho, there you go! Multi forumers, here's another Muffer.......... Don't you just love 'em

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    Not sure if these are the correct binoculars for the CES, they are for sale from Holts at £39
    Cookie Not Accepted : Holts Auctioneers

  16. #20
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    Them's a pair of Mk2's. Chipped eye cups are a bit of a pain and we'd find that the threads on the 60's manufactured replacements wouldn't mate up properly some times. But later we got a different sort made from a more forgiving cream coloured fiberous sort of material. But it took black paint OK.

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