Late Nagoya Type 99

[WarPig1976]

Duh, forgot take a pic of the mum,, No it's not ground but it is defaced with 3 lines....

[Aragorn243]

That's what they call a "Struck" mum. Rough equivalent of a ground mum but some collectors will pay a bit more for this type than a fully ground mum.

[Midmichigun]

Gents,
I did get 3 types of wood for the fore end padauk, and walnut being among them. Notice the colors..


I have also included in this photo, a Type 99 stock that is unrefinished for comparison.


Not only do we have to pay attention to color on wood selection and repair, we must also look at machinability and stability. Also, if the wood will encourage rust!!

I think the padauk is going to be a winner!

[Aragorn243]

Which wood is which?

[mil-surp60]

Gents,
I am back to my "regular" page now with markings and series numbers. Amazing how you loose things on the 'net if you don't bookmark.

http://oldmilitarymarkings.com/japanese_markings.html

As such, I was looking at the series 10 through 12 production figures. Is it possible to nail the approximate time that the rifle was made... Late 44... early 45 etc? As we all know, they were bombed out heavily and no known exact dates are recorded.

Just out of curiosity, as most of the early war features have been deleted from this one (moveable sights... chrome)... but it lacks rope slings and "angry beaver" machine marks to a large extent...

When I get a "correct" end cap to the rifle, then I can start machining out the "duffel cut" fore end and upper handguard.

Very informative link my friend thanx for sharing that info , sure saves me a ot of internet research on these rifles.

[Midmichigun]

I'm bad!
In the last photo, the wood nearest the stock is Bubinga.
In the middle is Padauk.
And top, nearest the bayonet is Hormigo Negro.
All are un tinted.

Mil,
I try and post as much info as can be of help to the next generation.

[Midmichigun]

Gents,
Well, it was time to abuse the mill. It was so cold out recently, I couldn't get it to start. Therefore I put a light on it for some time, to heat up the belts.
I ended up running with Padauk, but some how trashed the wood selection. I therefore fell back on trusty walnut.
First up was to take my dimensions from the existing wood stock. This gave me barrel channel depth, width and also length. Then it was time to load up the 1/2in round router bit into my mill (which you can use a router table if you have one).





Then it was time to verify the cut against the original barrel:




Next up was to start to profile the lower handguard. Using an existing duffel cut and the original stock, it was time to start cutting!!



Photos were a little out of sequence, but you get the point.
And yes, I could have used a table saw to make more precise cuts that would have been faster. As you can see, there are multiple ways to arrive at a good restoration! Just quality first... and save your fingers!

More to come, when I get home from my trip!