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Thread: Starting a STEN Mk V SBR in the US

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  1. #201
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    IMA is out of them. I did read that, I think in Peter's book. That's why I'm doing phosphate and black.

    oz

    ---------- Post added at 02:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:17 PM ----------

    BTW, I did find a repro one out of AU. Will post details for your review.

    oz

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #202
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    Excellent book by the way!

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    recoil spring guide

    17th Airborne,
    could you give me some tips on setting the recoil and hammer spring guide and cutting it right? I am kind of winging it with my semi build. I lost the paperwork from Indianapolis Ordnance. I haven't been able to get them to give me another set of instructions either. By the way, the guide that you have built on this forum has been supremely helpful to me with my build. It is Mark 5 as well. I know I have to cut the springs and guides but I don't really know how much to cut them. Thanks for any help you can provide and this truly terrific build guide.
    Regards,
    Robert Rodgers

  6. #204
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  7. #205
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    TM

    Thanks much Vincent, I have finally gotten the project going and hit the brick wall without the paperwork.
    Regards,
    Robert Rodgers

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    Glad to help a fellow builder.

    Let us know if you have any questions.

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    Vincent,
    Could you answer that same question on Recoil and Hammer Springs. They say to shorten both of them. How do I know how much to shorten them and the spring guide?That is still a bit perplexing. Thanks for the help.
    Regards,
    Robert Rodgers

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    Before you start make sure the bolt moves freely and is lubricated well. Same with the springs and guides.

    Start by cutting the springs as described in the instructions. Then assemble the gun. If you can get the complete assembly, bolt, hammer, spring guides into the gun, you do not need to shorten the spring guides.

    Now that you have it assembled, you should be able to pull the cocking handle back far enough for the hammer to be caught by the sear. If you can do that it’s time to test fire the gun.

    You are testing to see if the force of a shot being fired moves the bolt back far enough for the hammer to be caught by the sear.

    Keep in mind that you will get slightly different results depending on the weight of the bullet and powder charge. So, use the ammo you plan to shoot most.

    If the hammer gets caught by the sear when you fire a shot, you don’t need to trim the springs.

    If you fire a shot and the hammer does not get caught by the sear, you will need to trim the springs.

    When a spring is fully compressed it’s called its “solid length.” It’s not good for springs to be compressed more than that and will often damage the spring. The short round bar between the spring guides (bolt stop) is there to stop the springs from being compressed to their solid length or beyond.

    The trick in trimming the springs is to find the sweet spot where the bolt can move far enough to the rear for the hammer to engage the sear, but not hit the bolt stop.

    You can see how far the bolt is moving back with each shot by putting some masking tape over the cocking handle slot.

    Start trimming by cutting one coil off the hammer spring. Then test fire another round.

    If you are close, take another coil off the hammer spring and test fire again.

    Do not take more than half an inch off the hammer spring.

    If the hammer still doesn’t engage the sear, take half a coil off the recoil spring. Test fire. Repeat until the hammer engages the sear with every shot.

  11. #209
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    I've read all the way through this, very interesting and informative. I have a question about the template. Does the groove for the cocking handle align with the middle of the ejection port, or is it suposed to align with the top of the ejection port? I have seen two different configurations. With the cocking handle in the groove, the ribs under the bolt face have to line up with the ejector, doesn't it? Why do I see two different conbfigurations? I hope my question is clear, but it looks like the build in this thread has the groove lined up right in the middle of the ejection port. That does not seem like it will align the bolt correctly on the template that I have. I see different .pdf templates that claim to be for the MKV. Thanks for any clarification on this.

  12. #210
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    sten mk5

    Any final thoughts for someone starting a similar build?

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