M47C 1944 No4 Mk1 "T" Sportster by Bubba's big brother...

[ArtioZen]

I went to a local “1000 table” gunshow with friends who were in the market for a Garand, and having been about 100th in line when the doors open we had our ideal specimen in the opening minutes…I also found a cluster of Lee Enfields with this sporter as the low ticket item among them…

The good – The remaining principle parts show 1944 Shirley No4 Mk1 heritage and could have been a real T:
Clear “TR” marked on left wrist, “T” just above the ejector screw, “S” on the forward right receiver wall, Inspection stamps on the rear of the receiver at the butt interface and a scope number on the butt upper, with an “S” of “S51” peeking out of the leather cheek piece. All letters seem of the right size, age (relative to other surface finishes) and type. I double checked it at the show, took a deep breath and took the plunge (I bought enough of the rifle for the low asking price) – several other of the Enfield’s were already being inspected by other buyers!
When home I started photographing and first strip inspection and found several other M47C marks on various pieces, the rifle serial number on the upper edge of the butt (inside the socket). Uncovering the leather from the butt and revealing the full “S51” and finding the original cheek piece mounting holes – one with a shorn screw protruding. A little coaxing and work should restore the butt and add a repro wood cheek piece.
It seems a numbers matching rifle, however the wrist and barrel have a “1” prefix, where on the bolt it is an “F” – the rest of the serial is a match, including on the butt (also a "1" prefix) – is this a “Friday afternoon” deviation?
The barrel shows no sign of recent activity, it has sharp rifling with some darker patches – a sustained cleaning is planned – it’s first for some time..
The Lyman scope features a post and bar reticle with 4 power and is good condition – time to recycle!
It has a nice mazak butt plate, but nothing in the locker!
It takes dummy rounds from stripper clips and cycles them nicely without issue to any function.

The bad – Clearly the scope pads are gone – regardless if real or repro! The receiver finish is worn and there are sanding? marks through the (parkerised?) finish that continue through the pad seats. I would not describe the finish to match the brunofixing of my 1945 example – any thoughts? The pads are not with the rifle, and as I shoot CMP and similar iron sight events, they may not be sought for a while. The front pad seems to have required a lot of machining to seat in collimation and has distinct mill swirls.
When I got the scope and bracket off and adaptor out of the rear battle sight I could remove the bolt and found a 0 size bolt head with around 20 degrees of overturn – I will look into fitting a new bolt head and tightening the build per Peter Laidler's instructions – it feels like it needs a strip, clean and light lube s it currently gives spring sounds and small “clicks” on cocking.
The hand guard has a plain trigger guard screw holding good pressure with a suitable collar, but no washer and the draws seem to be good – although not fully leveraged by the front bearing being missing – the barrel is touching the right hand side of the barrel channel in the hand guard and shows no sign of any pencil marks for tracing the serial number at H&H or any stamps on the forward top edge of the receiver wall – all will be replaced and missing parts sought to complete to original spec.
The seer seems to have been worked -there are also grind marks on the lower receiver at the wrist between the trigger guard crew lugs – and an additional spring worked into the trigger guard (to lower trigger pressure?).
The rear site is a Fazakerly and has an enlarged and tapped battle sight hole for the aperture bushing – a suitable replacement will be sought.

The ugly - The drilled and tapped scope mount is well done – but has put two holes in the receiver at the breech (about 6 turns deep) and one on in the charger guard…these may get grub screws – any thoughts on restoration options if I go for a full rebuild and refinish (later)?
There additional stamped marks on the left receiver wall – “L3A1” and what look likes “ROF 53” – the leg of the “R” looks like it could have been a chipped punch, or is formed by a random “ding” and is really a “P”. I call shenanigans unless anybody can make sense of it!

I plan a slow restoration – first off is new front furniture and restored bedding – gives me time to also work on the bolt and confirm headspace, slug the bore etc.. before a test firing and if all is good a spell as a shooter (at whatever level it performs at: target / plinker) then maybe a more intense restoration.

Am interested in any other observations, guidance on restoration subjects posed above and a set of Badgers review panel icons for verification – whichever way it goes! Any signs of the scope per the number on the wrist in the world or historic record?

PS - Yep – they’re reproducing!

Information

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[snipershot1944]

I went to a local “1000 table” gunshow with friends who were in the market for a Garand, and having been about 100th in line when the doors open we had our ideal specimen in the opening minutes…I also found a cluster of Lee Enfields with this sporter as the low ticket item among them…

The good – The remaining principle parts show 1944 Shirley No4 Mk1 heritage and could have been a real T:
Clear “TR” marked on left wrist, “T” just above the ejector screw, “S” on the forward right receiver wall, Inspection stamps on the rear of the receiver at the butt interface and a scope number on the butt upper, with an “S” of “S51” peeking out of the leather cheek piece. All letters seem of the right size, age (relative to other surface finishes) and type. I double checked it at the show, took a deep breath and took the plunge (I bought enough of the rifle for the low asking price) – several other of the Enfield’s were already being inspected by other buyers!
When home I started photographing and first strip inspection and found several other M47C marks on various pieces, the rifle serial number on the upper edge of the butt (inside the socket). Uncovering the leather from the butt and revealing the full “S51” and finding the original cheek piece mounting holes – one with a shorn screw protruding. A little coaxing and work should restore the butt and add a repro wood cheek piece.
It seems a numbers matching rifle, however the wrist and barrel have a “1” prefix, where on the bolt it is an “F” – the rest of the serial is a match, including on the butt (also a "1" prefix) – is this a “Friday afternoon” deviation?
The barrel shows no sign of recent activity, it has sharp rifling with some darker patches – a sustained cleaning is planned – it’s first for some time..
The Lyman scope features a post and bar reticle with 4 power and is good condition – time to recycle!
It has a nice mazak butt plate, but nothing in the locker!
It takes dummy rounds from stripper clips and cycles them nicely without issue to any function.

The bad – Clearly the scope pads are gone – regardless if real or repro! The receiver finish is worn and there are sanding? marks through the (parkerised?) finish that continue through the pad seats. I would not describe the finish to match the brunofixing of my 1945 example – any thoughts? The pads are not with the rifle, and as I shoot CMP and similar iron sight events, they may not be sought for a while. The front pad seems to have required a lot of machining to seat in collimation and has distinct mill swirls.
When I got the scope and bracket off and adaptor out of the rear battle sight I could remove the bolt and found a 0 size bolt head with around 20 degrees of overturn – I will look into fitting a new bolt head and tightening the build per Peter Laidler's instructions – it feels like it needs a strip, clean and light lube s it currently gives spring sounds and small “clicks” on cocking.
The hand guard has a plain trigger guard screw holding good pressure with a suitable collar, but no washer and the draws seem to be good – although not fully leveraged by the front bearing being missing – the barrel is touching the right hand side of the barrel channel in the hand guard and shows no sign of any pencil marks for tracing the serial number at H&H or any stamps on the forward top edge of the receiver wall – all will be replaced and missing parts sought to complete to original spec.
The seer seems to have been worked -there are also grind marks on the lower receiver at the wrist between the trigger guard crew lugs – and an additional spring worked into the trigger guard (to lower trigger pressure?).
The rear site is a Fazakerly and has an enlarged and tapped battle sight hole for the aperture bushing – a suitable replacement will be sought.

The ugly - The drilled and tapped scope mount is well done – but has put two holes in the receiver at the breech (about 6 turns deep) and one on in the charger guard…these may get grub screws – any thoughts on restoration options if I go for a full rebuild and refinish (later)?
There additional stamped marks on the left receiver wall – “L3A1” and what look likes “ROF 53” – the leg of the “R” looks like it could have been a chipped punch, or is formed by a random “ding” and is really a “P”. I call shenanigans unless anybody can make sense of it!

I plan a slow restoration – first off is new front furniture and restored bedding – gives me time to also work on the bolt and confirm headspace, slug the bore etc.. before a test firing and if all is good a spell as a shooter (at whatever level it performs at: target / plinker) then maybe a more intense restoration.

Am interested in any other observations, guidance on restoration subjects posed above and a set of Badgers review panel icons for verification – whichever way it goes! Any signs of the scope per the number on the wrist in the world or historic record?

PS - Yep – they’re reproducing!

That's just kind of sad. Good luck on your restoration.

[limpetmine]

Ugh. Hope you got it cheap.
Long road in front of you...

[Roger Payne]

Henry,
Just a few off the top of my head observations:
It's certainly a real one & the serial should start with an 'F'.
The butt socket has been incorrectly restamped at some point.
The L-whatever it was & the other garbage stamped into the receiver either side of the 'T' is all spurious.
Has the barrel been shortened a little, or has the foresight block been moved forwards?
The holes in the receiver from the commercial scope mounts can be blanked off with grub screws & then covered over with weld (if done carefully), great care being taken to ensure the screw that is puddled over in the receiver ring is seated shallow enough NOT to interrupt the barrel threads (or you will never get the barrel out!).
The spurious receiver side wall markings could also be puddled with weld if done carefully, & then all made off. The weld will lead to variations in colour if you intend to blue, but if you phosphate & suncorite it (or use a similar paint to suncorite) it won't matter at all.

It is just the kind of restoration project I like. There is a lot to do but it is do-able if you have the time & patience. I am shortly picking up a L42A1 that has had similar treatment & I'm really looking forward to getting to grips with it.

ATB

[ssj]

"I will look into fitting a new bolt head and tightening the build per Peter Laidler's instructions"

tightening the build?

[ArtioZen]

Snipershot - not so sad now its in rehab - I used all my luck finding it tho!
Limpetmine - Price was typical of a wall-hanger in this part of the US - it will keep me off the streets and happily tinkering - with a doable budget.

Roger - Many thanks as always for your guidance and support - will do exactly as you say. Good eyesight by the way! - the barrel is cropped to remove bayonet lugs and re-crowned nicely - the foresight block is in its original position so standard furniture is planned.

ssj - Need to make sure its not a wall-hanger and set it up to achieve all it can = locking lugs bear evenly when blued, CHS gages are on the way, bolt head overturn is a little much and I will look to install one which aligns with the long rib (or slightly over) = firing forces transfer onto bolt body face etc and off of the threads. Striker lift is 0.030" and the striker protrusion is 0.048". So for the bolt head swap I am thinking of calling by Sarco and trying a few - probably the closest I can get to a "tray full of bolt heads!". I was thinking of which dimensions would control bolt head overturn, and after a search - drawings are elusive and it seems it involve thread start indexing / tolerance - which few vendors can measure to sell me "the right bolt head" so will plan to swap and test unless this can be clarified / cleared up.

Also found that the trigger job has resulted in a massive pressure / single stage experience - time for a new sear... (and another one of Peter's "how to"s)

Thanks again to all for the support, guidance and excellent resources - will post (brief) updates when I can!

[ArtioZen]

As found the Field No Go gauge was just rejected by the bolt in the action (all others closing). The dealer I first visited had a few bolt heads, but not the equivalent of a "tray" - I did find a No2 bolt head which reduced overturn (still want to make it tighter) and now just grazes the SAAMI No Go Gauge

The only trigger parts to come my way are "S"avage marked and are now installed - soft single stage pull in place of the killer snap it had previously. Also improvised a front fiber bearing to set the barrel in the center of the channel in the shorter length forearm and better set up the front trigger guard screw and collar.

Had a chance to shoot it and all went well - pulling 1" groups of 2 with adjustments to front sight - didn't go too crazy with rounds down range with the stock the way it was.

When I got home the mail had dropped off the fore end kit I was waiting for - if I had no plans to shoot it would have been a while longer (Murphy)

So set to the front end - a 1950s beech set - stained a little darker by the PO, the draws are great, a little work to the front bearing and cap for clearance and right channel relief and its on its way! The front sight had also been moved 0.5" rearwards by, so this was put back into its required position for full wood. With the bolt and fore end behaving I could fettle the trigger back to achieve a two stage pull - not bad for an afternoons work! The replacement cheek piece is still in the mail - the original holes have been prepped (removal of sheared screw / wood filler) and a pair of authentic steel slotted screws selected from my hardware stash.

So now the muzzle barley clears the front sight protector - I also have the neutered end of a No4 spare (bubba does not throw these away - but offers them for sale). What thoughts are there to graft the end of the barrel back, reinstating length and bayonet lugs? - albeit with a relieved ID back to the existing crown..I have discussed this with a couple of forumers privately but answers / experience is short, so this should be shared!... the thinking so far = turn tight stepped shoulders on each - braze / weld - counter-bore?

[Mikesm44]

Already looking much better.

[Promo]

As it's anyway a restoration, I'd put in a barrel from another No. 4 rifle. Little work compared to fix the muzzle with the part you have, aswell as that most probably will be a big influence upon the precision.

[Peter Laidler]

It worries me a tad when I hear this talk about a 'field no-go gauge' You could be barking up a non existent tree there. There are only TWO CHS gauges for the No4 series of rifles. They are .064" GO and .074" NO GO.

You could graft the muzzle end on as I have before but to do a proper job, you've still got to remove the barrel so if it were me, I'd replace it anyway with a good used as suggested by Promo. I know....., I know......, the purists and originality fiends out there (there is another less polite term for them in my book.....) will cringe but we replaced barrels every day of the week without a thought for all this originality guff!

If you are going down the graft a new muzzle on it then I would bore out the new muzzle section to .315" so that the exiting bullet does not touch it. Now machine off the foresight lug area of the original barrel to 3/4 barrel diameter and bore the new muzzle section to suit for depth and diameter. Sweat in place and using a surface plate while still at melting point of solder, adjust the new muzzle section/foresight protectors to accurately align with backsight. I have done it a couple of times, last time to resurrect a sporterised No7

The bullet will exit the original muzzle 2" further in of course but the barrel will weight and act the same as original* - which is all you want!

* theoretically it won't but in practice it will be so close as to make no appreciable difference I feel.

The real problem you face is fitting up a set of pre-drilled pads to match up with the holes in the body! If it was me, I'd be starting again with UN-drilled pads! Easier in the long run I'd suggest.