Can I assemble an AR-15?

[RBruce]

I work on cars. I've done valve jobs, carb rebuilds, brake work, suspension replacements, etc. I've inletted barreled actions in stocks, and disassembled and reassembled m1 Carbines, M1 Garand and M1As except for barrel installation. So, if I purchase a receiver block and barrel tool, and follow the various instructions closely, is there any reason to think I would not be able to assemble an upper receiver? BTW, I don't have two left thumbs.

Information

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[browningautorifle]

These are a modular firearm and meant to be more user friendly than just about any. I had a owner come over a few days back to have his AR re-configured as he didn't have the tools(that's the biggest drawback) and said he didn't know. I showed him how and now he just needs the tools if he's to do it again. Remember, we're here if things go sideways, and for anything you do, check for a demo on the internet. There'll be someone taking you through it. The hardest would be removing front sight pins, and that's easy if you do it right.

[Bill Hollinger]

No reason why you can't at all. Go to YouTube and do a search there. Thy have lots of videos that will assist you. One suggestion; when you torque the barrel not and find you are in the middle of one of the gas tube notches, do not over torque to the next notch. Back off to the previous one. You will still be within torque but not over torques.

[vintage hunter]

The barrel nut torque range is 30 - 80 ft. lbs. Never dry torque. Lube the nut and receiver threads thoroughly with a good quality molybdenum disulfide grease or an anti-seize compound formulated especially for aluminum, other types can cause corrosion. Once lubed torque and loosen the nut 3 times to 30 ft. lbs., aligning the gas tube notches on the third go. In my experience most will line up between with 35 - 55 ft. lbs but some will require a bit more. If for whatever reason you should find it necessary to back off the nut to align the gas tube notches loosen it all the way and start over.

[browningautorifle]

That's all excellent stuff...the park solution will clean off a bit and it will torque true after a couple go's. The lube is a must too...forgot about that.

[Bill Hollinger]

Yes, lube! Sorry I didn't mention that. I use aluminum base anti-seize on the barrel nut. I usually run them at 60 foot pounds and back off to align. Also I will torque it up and back it off a couple of times.

[mercman]

I've put over a dozen AR's together from parts. I usually get a parts kit from J&T and purchase a lower from an FFL. There are several makers out there. The last one was an LRB lower. There's a good tutorial on AR15.com.

* J&T AR-15 Parts & Accessories - Black Rifle Specialists

Assemble your own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by step instructions! - AR15.COM

[RBruce]

Thanks all. I ordered an A1 upper from Midway plus parts and tools. Now for the lower receiver. I don't think I want poly. There are a crazy number of forged lowers available. How does one know what is good and what to stay away from?

[jmoore]

Haven't heard of any "bad" lowers lately.

I'm another one of those "drunk monkeys" that have managed to assemble an AR or 30. It's the little spring loaded plungers that give me the worst fits. Especially if I'm out of spares...

[browningautorifle]

I don't think I want poly.

No, you don't. No poly receivers for hi pressure guns please. The market seems to be full of names today for uppers and lowers, don't get too wrapped around a name. Look at prices. You'll do fine.