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    Legacy Member HOOKED ON HISTORY's Avatar
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    No 4 Mk1* stock repair

    Finally found a nice Longbranch to fill that hole in my small family of Enfields. Only one issue a splitting forestock. I have seen this issue addressed here but cannot seem to find the post. Any tips on how to repair this before it becomes a big problem or hints on finding the previous posting. I seem to remember a treaded wire threaded into a drilled hole at a 90 degree angle to the split. Any input would be appreciated.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    You COULD put a slip patch here but I wouldn't bother........ Just drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve it. Then open up the crack and insert some wood adhesive. Clamp-up. Then tomorrow carefully drill a hole verticallt down, not necessarily completely through. Make a suitable diameter plug, drive home and that should be it for the next 70 years.

    Just my opinion of course but the threaded wire thing ain't for wood that's already split. It's to strengthen wood that MIGHT split.

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    I will do just that. Any recommendations on a good waterproof adhesive? I have had good success with gorilla glue on umfinished wood but the foaming as it cures would create an awful mess on finished wood.

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    I just use aero spec wood adhesive. Easy to clean off after setting for 24 hrs. Been discussed here several times. I hope that this Gorilla glue is better than the double back gorilla tape I used to put the number plates onto my VW Polo. The front plate one is probably still on the autobahn between Dusseldorf and Calais!

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    Contributing Member Gil Boyd's Avatar
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    The Gendarmerie have probably got a fist full of speeding tickets under that number for you Peter on your return
    'Tonight my men and I have been through hell and back again, but the look on your faces when we let you out of the hall - we'd do it all again tomorrow.' Major Chris Keeble's words to Goose Green villagers on 29th May 1982 - 2 PARA

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    Legacy Member Ridolpho's Avatar
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    HOH: Nice looking rifle! How's the bore? Regarding glue brands, I've done several repairs, including complete draws patches, with "Titebond III". I found it at the local lumberyard but it's imported from the US. It seems similar to normal white glue (only stronger?) and spillage can easily be cleaned off with a damp rag. Tested a Savage No. 4 yesterday that had complete draws replacement glued in with this stuff (and dowelled, of course) and 60 rounds didn't cause any problems. I'd be curious to hear of other brand names that members have found effective. I agree Gorilla glue might be pretty messy.

    Ridolpho
    Last edited by Ridolpho; 08-08-2014 at 09:42 PM.

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    The bore looks quite good. I have been looking for the areo spec Peter mentioned with no luck if someone has a trade name. I picked up some locktite Go2 which drys clear ,shock,heat and water resistant seems to be a flexable super glue sets in 30 min. cures in 24 hrs and the viscosity sees ideal for application with a syringe. In no hurry to complete the project so I will wait for additional input on the glue etc... Picked up another tip today. The use of bamboo skewers for the dowelling. The seem to be a good diameter for the ara in question and they are pretty stout not to mention I have some .
    One more question should I flush the area to be bonded with a solvent (acetone perhaps) and let dry before gluing/ doweling to aid in bonding?
    Last edited by HOOKED ON HISTORY; 08-09-2014 at 09:32 PM.

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    I suppose you could clear off the area to be glued but I don't ever remember doing it and my patches didn't seem to come loose.

    Bamboo skewers.............. It's just a fibre. I was taught to use oak

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    I suppose you could clear off the area to be glued but I don't ever remember doing it and my patches didn't seem to come loose.

    Bamboo skewers.............. It's just a fibre. I was taught to use oak
    I was a bit concerned about bonding to the BLOicon soaked wood. Oak seems the logical choice but I have yet to find them in the correct diameter. Think I have a friend who can turn one down for me.
    Thanks guys. I will post the results.

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    HOH, do yourself a favor and just use good old fashion wood glue. Titebond, Elmer's, whatever brand you like. The glued joint is stronger then the wood itself. I flush with Acetone as a matter of course when working on Milsurps "makes me feel better either way". Get hold of some rubber tubing so you can apply clamping pressure. I use oak, if you have a drill chuck it up and turn it down to your desired diameter with 100 grit sandpaper held in your hand. It's how I do it in my humble home shop.

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