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  1. #1
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    any idea what this is

    must be some sort of clinometer for use on artilery ( in any case according to the seller).

    i do have a watkin model 1903 clino but this seems to do a bit more and was probably atached to the gun/canon /etc


    any tips are welcome
    i guess it wasn't for use on the lee enfield


    http://s6.postimg.org/e9plfan35/IMAG0403.jpg
    http://s6.postimg.org/7xag5gk0x/IMAG0405.jpg
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #2
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I think it's Germanicon.
    Regards, Jim

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    Thread Starter
    i doubt dhat , it has the broadarrow on it.

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    You're right. I was focused on the other mark...was this the original item? Rare 1945 ERW S Surveyors Level complete with original wooden case' The company also makes surveying instruments and this one has a leveling bubble.
    Last edited by browningautorifle; 08-26-2014 at 01:25 PM.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member emmagee1917's Avatar
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    That hinged bar set up looks like something for use on a map or plotting board . The little glass dome I've seen on tire balancing posts . It's a leveling bubble , and the device would have to be positioned as shown for it to work. I'd guess for plotting fire board , but just a guess.
    Chris

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    Thread Starter
    "plotting fire board " , is there another way to describe this? the google translation wasn't an help

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    Advisory Panel Patrick Chadwick's Avatar
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    Ancient technology - no batteries required!

    Yoeri, maybe this explanation helps. I have personally used the plane table method for making a plot of an archaeological site. It is a stereoscopic surveying method and very, very old - real pyramid building stuff. Not having had sighting telescopes, the Romans, Egyptians etc. would have used an alidade, of which your instrument is a modern version. Slow, but it works.

    For objects that are inaccessible for direct measurement*, simple surveying at short distances (large buildings, town walls, fortifications) can be carried out with the aid of a plane table ** and a sighting telescope that can be levelled. The plane table must first be set up LEVEL at one end of a base line. The blank piece of paper that is to serve as the future plot/map is fixed on the table with the base line drawn at (close to) the bottom AND aligned in the direction of the base line, to a scale that allows the entire area to be surveyed to fit onto the paper.

    *i.e. because of moats, barriers, broken ground, hostile action.
    **Note: NOT plain = simple but PLANE = flat and level.

    The sighting telescope or alidade is placed on the paper at a suitable position, offset from the baseline point you are working from,, so as not to obscure it, and aligned on the survey point you wish to fix on the plot. As this may be up a hill or on a wall, the scope must be able to rotate in the vertical plane. If this also has an angular scale, you will be able to calculate the height of the survey point IF you know the distance. And that you will be able to work out - later! So note the elevation angle of the survey point.

    Without disturbing the sighter, shift the parallel ruler to pass over the marked baseline end point on the plot paper, and draw a line through that point right across the paper. To avoid later confusion (see below) it is a good idea to write an identification at the top end of each line. Repeat this procedure for every survey point that you wish to fix.

    Now move the plane table to the other end of the base line. Make sure that you move in the direction given by the line on the plot, and not off at an angle! Set up the table level again, and repeat the procedure of drawing lines from this end to the survey points and noting the elevation angles.

    You now have a plot that is covered by two sets of lines radiating from the end points of the base line. Each survey point is marked on the plot by the intersection of a pair of lines. Having done it, I can assure you that one of the problems is identifying the correct intersection point from a mass of such points. Especially if (like me) you forgot to write little IDs on the lines!

    When you have finished, all the survey points are marked in the plot - to scale, the scale being given by the base line. You can then "join the dots" to draw in the outline of your castle, town wall or whatever. You can measure off the distances to the points and the distances between the points. As you noted the elevation angles, you can also calculate the height of the castle keep/church tower etc. And since you noted (you did, didn't you?) the elevation angle from both ends, you have two values with which to calculate the elevations. If the base line end points are not at the same height, you must correct for this.

    Now that you have plotted the fortifications, all you need to do is to get the cannons into position, and give the gunners the ranges and elevations!

    But you do need to be able to draw very precisely!
    Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 08-26-2014 at 04:56 PM.

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    Yes , what he said .
    Chris

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    Isn't there an app for that?....

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    Looks like a older surveying clinometer to me !.................

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