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Thread: 22 extractor info needed

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  1. #11
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    Peter Laidler's Avatar
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    That's a good thought BAR. The down side is that it works for the No2 rifle and the N9's.

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  3. #12
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    Mr E, I will check to see if I have a spare one, if not and if it helps I will make a template out of card and send it ......

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  5. #13
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    The down side is that it works for the No2 rifle and the N9's.
    Agreed, but it's the best I can do without it in my hands. It's always something simple, just usually takes another guy to point it out to you. Then you have it.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member 5thBatt's Avatar
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    If you recess the bolthead you will need an ejector, on a No2 & N9 the case simply falls away from the extractor & bolthead as there's nothing holding in place once it's clear of the chamber.

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  8. #15
    Legacy Member desky85's Avatar
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    I have been stuffing around making a .22 Long Rifle MkI* replica rifle (MLE or Longtom .22) today from a worn sporter and had a similar issue with an original extractor. It would jump over the rim of the .22 case and leave it sitting in the chamber. I found that the extractor was pushing to case head too far over in the chamber, jamming it in there and the extractor would ride over the case rim and leave the case in the chamber.

    What I did was put a dob of solder on the inside of the extractor where it makes contact with the bolthead and filed it down, so the extractor did not push the case across as much. Extracts fine now. It's not very good explanation sorry. Let me know if need me to take a photo to show you what I did.

  9. #16
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I understand, you made the extractor so it didn't bear on the case, just pull it straight back...
    Regards, Jim

  10. #17
    Legacy Member desky85's Avatar
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    Yeah mate. That's it. Best thing about solder is if you file too much off, just put another dob on and start again.

  11. #18
    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    Also bear in mind that the No. 2 rifle was designed to use STANDARD velocity ammo with un-plated, waxed lead bullets, not modern, high-velocity stuff; after all the rifle was supposed to be used as a trainer, often indoors. Given that pretty much all of the powder in a .22 Long-Rifle case is burnt in a 16" barrel, the bullet would be more-or-less coasting as it left the muzzle.

    Get a few boxes of lower-velocity stuff and see how you go, while I keep digging for that drawing.

  12. #19
    Legacy Member ActionYobbo's Avatar
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by desky85 View Post
    I have been stuffing around making a .22 Long Rifle MkI* replica rifle (MLE or Longtom .22) today from a worn sporter .
    I am also building a 22 on a long tom have all the most of the work done and have test fired it. I am doing a replica of this rifle


    to finish it I need the nose cap, sights and an extractor
    1ATSR 177AD & 4/3 RNSWR

  13. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce_in_Oz View Post
    use STANDARD velocity ammo
    That's true too. Almost no bang when it fires, just a tame pop. Almost not audible a few dozen yard away out doors.
    Regards, Jim

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