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Legacy Member
Given that the charger bridge is a riveted attachment, the bottom surfaces of the receiver body would certainly be a better bet!
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12-31-2014 07:55 AM
# ADS
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Advisory Panel
In the absence of the correct tooling, I have been setting barrels with the receiver ring flat and the barrel nocks form. I use two pieces of 5/16 key steel about 9" long. Sit one across each flat and check them for parallel. Over the length the slightest over or under turn sticks out like the proverbial dogs whatsits. By standing the rear sight leaf up and looking from the receiver end it usually confirms the barrel in indexed right. In some cases where the flats have had any sort of marring to their surfaces, I just go with the rear sight leaf by default.
The correct tooling for checking the barrel indexing is called a wing gauge. The tool is two parts, one sits into the boltway from the back and has a lug underneath which locates between the rear trigger guard screw lugs, and a "wing" on the top which sticks up above the boltway. The second part is a bar with a flat blade on both ends at right angles to the bar. It sits above the receiver with one end on the "wing" of the first part and the other end on the nocks form flat. I cannot recall where this pic came from, but I'll stick it up with apologies to the owner if he is here...
Attachment 58889
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See the point you're making re the charger bridge Bruce but the actual fitting/jigs/setting up was done at the factory with the bridge in the horizontal plane as the optimum position blah blah blah for the correct whatever it is for the new magazine charging method. I had the wording here somewhere from an old EMER relating to loose chargers and their total non interchangeability should the bridge fail. Including a drawing of the odd shaped anvil tool thinggy to be used for tightening the old rivets.
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Legacy Member
I've had a fair bit of success with these.
Wheeler Engineering Level-Level-Level Scope Crosshair Leveling Tool
Set the barrel up in the barrel vice so the the rear sight is level, which can be a bit tricky when you are doing the clamping nuts. Screw the receiver on and use the same level on flats above the bolt channel, behind the charger bridge (same place for the gauge in Son's post above) and tighten until level. Check the whole set up again incase something has moved in the process. Most of the time, all is straight and good which beats having to repeat the whole process a number of times until you are satisfied it is straight, which is also pretty important with the SMLE as you don't want the front sight base touching the side of the nosecap.
The wheeler levels are ok, but I would like something a bit more precise and not plastic. The magnet on them is very handy though.
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Legacy Member
I like that tool that Son posted. Looks like a good apprentice tool.
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