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  1. #1
    Legacy Member mac1911's Avatar
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    M1917 trigger work

    Ok so the search feature wont work for me. I keep getting a pop up and it wont close?

    Anyhows, Im looking for info on improving the M1917(eddystone) trigger. mine is gritty and clunky and I dont know where to begin. Have been doing M1icon triggers and working on AR mil spec triggers also. along with mosin 91/30 all with success.

    any help would be greatly appreciated.
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    Legacy Member emmagee1917's Avatar
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    Not much said on it.
    Trigger Work
    Chris

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    Check and or replace loose or mis-aligned trigger and sear pins. ( pins should be less than slip fit and free from slop) Check for dirt or accumulated crud in sear spring hole. Examine first stage hump for prior polishing or wear which can increase trigger pull by allowing sear to ride higher in the cocking piece notch. Lastly make sure factory angles have not been altered which can be dangerous if not done correctly. If you choose to make adjustments with a stone only remove burrs or rippled surfaces only for a polish, using quality stones and not the part in one hand and stone in the other. I use a small vise ,good light and these days a magnifying glass. Having spare parts on hand is almost always beneficial to make sure the mechanism will lift a 4.5 pound weight. Oh, don't forget to look at the flat milled surface that the trigger moves against sometimes this is where the grating can originate.

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    Legacy Member JasonA's Avatar
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    A timney is worth the money and easy to install.

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    I shoot both a Remington 03a3 rebuild and a Remington 1917 JA barrel in local vintage matches. Both pristine 2 groove barrels-both should superb with allUSGI parts.

    I seem to shoot slightly better with the m1917 as it fits my 6'8' frame better.

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    Legacy Member Californiagunner's Avatar
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    mac1911:

    I was shooting a friends Eddy 1917 recently in order to develop a load for him. I liked it so well that I purchased an Eddy with a new CMPicon barrel installed and never fired. In the process of inspecting both rifles, I saw where the mechanical workings of the stock trigger could be improved.
    I purchased a spare trigger, sear and spring assembly for experimenting and turned the two stage 6+ lb. long gritty pull into a short single stage 3 lb. pull. I tested the rearward creep of the cocking piece with a dial indicator as the stock trigger is pulled and found that there was a huge distance that it creeps back before the cocking piece is released (a negative affect on the pull). I did a little gunsmithing (wet/dry 400, 1500 and then a white ceramic stone) on the angle of the face of the sear, reduced the top of the sear slightly and added a hump between first and second humps of the trigger.
    Since this is so new, I need to do more shooting with it to test the reliability and safety factor before going into more detail. I also slammed the rifle butt onto the top of my heavy duty welding table several times while it was cocked and never had a AD.

    Wayne

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Californiagunner View Post
    turned the two stage 6+ lb. long gritty pull into a short single stage 3 lb. pull.
    That removes the safety features from the trigger. You can get a Timney trigger that changes out and requires no gunsmithing to give you a nice clean range trigger...
    Regards, Jim

  10. #8
    Legacy Member Californiagunner's Avatar
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    On the M1917 trigger design, if the rifle doesn't have a accidental discharge (AD) when pushing the bolt back into battery and the weapon doesn't have an AD when slammed on it's butt end when cocked and if the safety device keeps the weapon from firing, I think the rifle is safe. But with a better trigger pull. Further testing is still in order. The Military Silhouette matches that I have started to shoot in don't allow after market triggers in the "As Issued" class.

    Wayne

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I'm well aware of the M1917 and what it's all about. Yours is no longer as issued. As issued is as issued.
    Last edited by browningautorifle; 08-30-2015 at 09:48 AM.
    Regards, Jim

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    Some times I look at the bolt shroud fit to the bolt body threads and the fit of the sear to shroud, I like to maintain factory angles and the case hardening and try parts fitting to get a clean breaking trigger that will lift a weight. Sometimes if you go to far with a stone and get to thin on the case your bolt knob may unexpectedly become a trigger if something is not hardened to sufficient depth or the cocking piece becomes rounded over time and allows a safety off. My old wore out junk gives me a hard time to lift the weight and I had to fall out of line during the inspection period once.

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