Brno mauser rear sight?

[Danang 69]

Hi, everyone, I have a Brno mauser that has no rear sight. The barrel in front of the receiver has 3 drilled and tapped holes. I do not know if this is the original configuration
or not. I have looked extensively for a sight that would mount like this. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Markings on receiver:

CSST

ZBROJVKA

BRNO

Serial # 4371 appears to be a nazi eagle on barrel at end of serial #.

Thanks, Danang69

Information

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[browningautorifle]

I have one right here and have just finished stripping it from original configuration...the rear sight on this one is a standard k98 sleeve. Soldered on and having one retaining screw. No extra holes forward of that. The only other holes would be one for the foresight. Replacing the rear sight sleeve should cover the extra holes. Don't forget to solder the whole thing in place...or it will move forward during firing.

[Danang 69]

Thank You Sir Bob

[Patrick Chadwick]

"The barrel in front of the receiver has 3 drilled and tapped holes. I do not know if this is the original configuration
or not. I have looked extensively for a sight that would mount like this. "


It is certainly not the original configuration.
In my limited experience, no backsight requires 3 mounting holes. It could have been for fitting a short (pistol type?) telescope with long eye-relief. A PHOTO WOULD HELP

As browningautorifle already pointed out, solder on a standard K98k sleeve. Alternatively, if you don't fancy cooking up your barrel, because of possible discoloration or lack of suitable equipment, then I reckon a modern cyan-acrylate "super glue" will work well, because of the very large contact area. And if you want to remove it someday, then heating the glue to solder temperature will destroy the bond. Or so I've read - never had to try it yet!

[Danang 69]

Patrick, thank you for the info and tip about the super glue. Bob

[browningautorifle]

I just did the k98 barrel and sight sleeve yesterday and the front sight too. They don't discolor at all, you don't get them that hot. You just flux and heat until it smokes. The rear is harder because of size, then apply thin lead wire solder and it will take as it settles down. It's a gunbarrel remember, they DO get hot, and I've had many way hotter than that. They return to cool without issue. Not sure the glue will hold during recoil? I just preferred to do it the way the original guys did...

[Danang 69]

Thanks Jim, I really appreciate the help. Bob