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  1. #11
    Legacy Member Vincent's Avatar
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    Thank you. How do you unlock the lug to close the strap?

    Attachment 66087

    These are the 3 different type butt plates I have for the Mk1 gun. I thought the one on the right is the Mk2 type PLATE, or do I have that wrong?

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  3. #12
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    Peter Laidler's Avatar
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    Wrong. They are all different versions of the Mk1 butt plate.
    Left, original contoured shape made by BSA and if you look hard you might see where the original lug (shown on right item) has been cut off and linished clean
    Middle; Later wartime expedient to omit superfluous shapes and crap with lug either not there to start with or cut off.
    Right Wartime expedient as per middle, cheaper and faster to produce but still retains useless butt strap lug.

    To unlock the lug you pull the strap rearwards to overcome the internal spring loaded catch and swing it over the butt forwards. Think carrying handle.......

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  6. #13
    Legacy Member Vincent's Avatar
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    Left, original contoured shape made by BSA and if you look hard you might see where the original lug (shown on right item) has been cut off and linished clean
    Attachment 66090

    I see it.

  7. #14
    Legacy Member TactAdv's Avatar
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    Hi Vince!,
    .....Just FYI, and mainly because having a Mk II I am deep into the II-style issues myself......here's some pictures of the shoulder offensive Mk II buttplate in question. And, following, a picture of the "Mk II-Mk II" buttplate which removed the protruding "hook" top lip.

    Attachment 66138Attachment 66140Attachment 66139

    Truth be told, I've never yet felt that the Mk II "hook" got in the way or ended up hurting, nothing like the shoulder tab on, say, the M1918A2 BAR buttstock. Same-same with the flip tab on the M60, too. -THOSE- can bite!! YMMV...

    I do agree fully that, as Peter states, that hook can catch on a lot of things, or just as easily get slammed downward on the ground.....and probably mostly served to damage the buttstock wood more than anything else helpful. ( And I am always quite careful myself to avoid just such impacts and related contacts......).
    -TomH

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  9. #15
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    When we replaced the hooked Mk2 butt plate with the unhooked Mk3 we weren't required to recess the tang in the wood as it was originally. Obviously we had to drill out and patch the elongated screw hole but where the recess was damaged it could just be made good. Clearly this saved a lot of wasted time patching.

    According to the Misc Instruction relating to it, this relaxation didn't seem to apply if you were just repairing and replacing the old Mk2 hooked butt plate. But common sense prevailed and everyone just repaired by making off level the recess and be done with it!

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  11. #16
    Legacy Member ActionYobbo's Avatar
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    I got the flat plate and installed it. I will have to wait until I can get to the range to see (feel) the difference
    1ATSR 177AD & 4/3 RNSWR

  12. #17
    Legacy Member tr63's Avatar
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    bump to find

  13. #18
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tr63 View Post
    bump to find
    To find what? Why not just start a thread instead of resurrecting a two year old thread?
    Regards, Jim

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  15. #19
    Legacy Member tr63's Avatar
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    Has anyone taken a MKII flat butt plate without the shoulder hook and welded on a wire extended loop as found on the MKIII butt plate ?

  16. #20
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    Why? The Mk2 butt already had a sling loop on the side. So what would be the point I ask?

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