New Stock For Custom M1917 Target Rifle

[KanadianKommando]

I understand your cause for concern, but I'm not completely new to this type if firearm; I did a lot of research on the M1917 Enfield Rifle when I first got this. The bolt will not even close at all when the safety is to the rear, and will only close when the safety is fully forward. I know that when the safety is forward, the rifle is able to shoot, and with the safety back, the bolt gets locked and the trigger is SUPPOSED to become inoperable. Like I mentioned a few posts up, the problem seems to be that the trigger group, firing pin, firing pin spring, and cocking piece are all mis-matched. Upon inserting an unmodified M1917 bolt, the bolt and safety functioned just fine.

[KanadianKommando]

Alright, just figured I'd do a quick update, as well as ask a question. I replaced the cocking piece and firing pin main spring in the bolt, and now it cycles and chambers rounds without problems. The current trigger that's on it now though isn't properly adjusting, and I was beginning to consider replacing it with a Timney trigger. However, here's my question; will a M1917 trigger work with this, or should I get a P14 trigger instead? I also considered just getting a complete original trigger group and calling it a day, but if a Timney trigger will work, then I'll just go that route.

[Seaspriter]

I replaced the cocking piece and firing pin main spring in the bolt, and now it cycles and chambers rounds without problems

I'm relieved you are putting the gun back to original specs -- IMHO that's where to start. Unless I'm mistaken, the P-14 and M1917 trigger groups should be identical -- that's why the US government contracted with the P-14 manufacturers: the P-14 needed only bolt and chamber reconfiguration to shoot the 30-06, everything else remained the same.

My suggestion is to put an authentic trigger group back in the gun, getting everything to work with synergy and synchronicity. Then, if you want to experiment, put in the Timney trigger and see how it shoots. When you sell the gun, you can always include an extra trigger group as a bonus so that a future buyer has the choice of which trigger they want to use.

[RC20]

Frankly I would work on the stock and keep as is. Strip it if you need to, fix the crack, finish back off

[KanadianKommando]

I ended up going the route of the Timney trigger, mainly because the place that the original sear spring was to go was filled in with some sort of epoxy. Timney trigger worked fine, just dropped it in and it worked right out of the box. Next steps will include tweaking the plate that sits underneath the receiver to allow increased single-shot feeding abilities. The way it is at the moment, rounds don't always slide under the extractor, and sometimes I have to fiddle with the round placement in order to have the extractor catch the rim of the round. Because this rifle is a controlled feed, I'll have to remove very small amounts of material from that plate until rounds sit at the right height that the bolt can somewhat reliably feed rounds individually loaded.

At this point, I just want the rifle to function okay so I can try and flip it to get my money back. This whole thing has been a great learning lesson though, and I've learned a lot about the M1917 and P14 rifles in the process. You've all been a great help during this ordeal, I'll post some updated pics shortly.

[Surpmil]

Canjar trigger I see. Pull it off and go back to stock if you can. At least with a two stage you know how close you are to letting off your shot.

If it's not possible to do that, and you don't know a friendly gun wrencher who can fix it for you, you might as well strip it as you'll never get back any money you spend. Almost no one wants these rifles now. They have no historical value and very little practical use either, except plinking.

[KanadianKommando]

After doing a bit of shooting with it, I just might keep it. It will never again be a true M1917/ P14, so may as well just accept it for what it is. After removing some material from the plate, rounds now slip under the extractor smoothly. I figure it'll be a good way to get me in to long range shooting and reloading, as I realize now that it'll be almost impossible to get my money back from this purchase. From the little bit of shooting I have done with it so far, it seems to group pretty good at 100yds with the reloads that came with it (155.5gr Berger bullet, Lapua brass, large primer, Ogive 2.107, OAL 2.856). The more I shoot it, the more it kinda grows on me as a shooter. And yes Surpmil, the trigger was a Canjar. How could you tell?

[Surpmil]

From the way it looks and attaches.

Your plan sounds like a good one, if you're certain the rifle's now operating safely.