6.5x55 Coyote Loads

[Stonefly2]

Hello all,

I am trying to work up a load for an upcoming coyote hunt. I have a Carl Gustav 1900 M96 (long barrel). No stock disk but a good looking barrel.

Current items I have
85gr Sierra Blitzking/varminteer
S&B and Sako brass. Once fired
IMR 4046
AA2460
CCI LR non magnum

Anyone got a good, accurate load with these components? I'm just looking for a starting point so, if anyone has good advice for the smaller pills and COL and such, would love any advice.

Information

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[ireload2]

Is that powder really IMR 4064?
I would call Sierra if you don't have a Sierra Manual. The Sierra and Lyman manuals used to have the most accurate loads identified. However the most accurate load may be with another powder.
Even with their recommendations you still have to try the loads in your rifle.

[browningautorifle]

Agreed, always work with loads from a reliable source, and that's not from the fertile mind of an unknown voice from the darkness of the internet. The powder manufacturers have bags of info...

[Parashooter]

Be sure to check out your 85 grain Sierra loads on paper before engaging Señor Coyote. With the M96's long barrel, it's not hard to push that little bullet over 3500 fps at sub-maximum pressure. With the tight twist, deep rifling, and thin jacket, it's not unknown to see this (intentionally) fragile bullet disintegrate a few yards downrange, leaving no evidence but a short trail of blue-gray vapor. My own experience with this effect was many years ago; it's been reported that Sierra did some redesign later.

See 6.5 X 55, twist rate light bullets for discussion by some good folks who are a bit confused about this bullet's weight (scroll down and they catch the error).

[browningautorifle]

it's not unknown to see this (intentionally) fragile bullet disintegrate a few yards downrange, leaving no evidence but a short trail of blue-gray vapor.

I've seen this as a black puff also...

[Parashooter]

Depends on ambient light and background.

[enfield303t]

The biggest mistake is asking what load to use on the internet, as stated in post #3. Buy at least TWO good reloading books, personally have Lyman and Hornady. Both are good but use the Lyman most of the time seeing as it usually appears Hornady was written by a lawyer, it is a good book just too often a huge variance from the Lyman recommendations.

Remember all the factors in the books include, make of case/primer and gun and most show what combination gave the best results which is worth considering, however that means nothing till you try any load in your gun.

[Stonefly2]

Ok. I know all guns are different, I know what shoots well in your gun might not shoot well in mine......

All I was looking for was a starting point. I have been reloading and shooting for almost 30 years.

Instead of me spending a ton of time trying to find a starting load, I would like someone to point me to a good powder or load to start. I will work it from there.

Thanks for all the advice, but I really just want a starting point.

[vintage hunter]

I know all guns are different, I know what shoots well in your gun might not shoot well in mine......

...And whats safe in mine may not be safe in yours and vice versa. Most here won't quote load data for this reason.
FWIW, light short bullets and the very long throats commonly found in military rifles aren't a combination that normally gives good accuracy. I've tried loading the 85-100gr varmint bullets in the 6.5x55 Swede and 6.5x50 Japanese. In my experience it was a total waste of good components. It's not possible to seat the bullets out far enough so they engage the rifling before leaving the case neck. However, I have an oddball ''custom'' Arisaka T38 that was apparently built to shoot the light varmint bullets. It was re-barreled and chambered in the original 6.5x50 caliber and shoots the 85gr Sierra's really well, but it has a unusually short throat for a 6.5mm. With a C.O.A.L. of 2.710'' the bullet is touching the rifling. It also has much tighter bore/chamber dimensions, pretty much all a FL die does is neck size the case and the max load is only 2-3 increments above the starting load.

[Funktastic]

Lyman publishes a pamphlet size load data book that covers 6.5x55 loads ranging from 100gr up through 150 gr bullets. You can buy it on Amazon for about $12 (US). I use it for my starting point loads for my M96, validating safe function with the suggested starting load before increasing the charge until I'm happy with the results. YMMV. Amazon.com : Lyman Load Data Book 24, 25, 6.5-mm : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports Outdoors

If you buy the wooden training rounds and pull the wooden bullet and (safely) discard the powder, you will then have sized and primed brass that just needs the right charge and a bullet. Do a search on Youtube and you'll find a gent that shows this exact process using a Lee Classic loader (Amazon.com : Lee Precision 6.5X55 SWedish Loader : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports Outdoors).

ONE problem with that solution is that you will need to crimp your rounds before using them in a semi-auto like the AG42 (if you happen to have one).