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  1. #41
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    Peter Laidler's Avatar
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    I would slightly disagree with BP regarding the 6v V 12v question, simply on the grounds of durability and maintainability. 12v will always be available as will the spare 12v electrics and even if the CORRECT Lucas (?) stuff ain't around, then the local equivalent 12v stuff will be easy to adapt. I look at it in a similar way to 24v Land Rovers....... how many are still running around on 24v - especially after a 24v alternator failure or short-out! And dual 6v batteried MGB's and GT's. How many of them still use 2 6v's when a good decent output 12v will fit into an easily converted 6v battery space?

    Nope, sorry lads. All this concourse crap is all very well if you really want to keep hitting your head but reliability, durability and maintainability win for me every time. Same as nuts and bolts and everyday consumables on restored vehicles. Would anyone really use Whitworths and BSF's when UNF's were suitable and readily available worldwide

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    No Posting Permitted Flying10uk's Avatar
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    I stronger suspect that starting will found to be much easer if converted to 12 volts, especially if the starter motor is left as is. People that I have spoken to, over the years, who have had experience of 6 volt vehicles is not favourable.

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    I had the chance to ask someone today who has had experience of using 6 volt vehicles and so I asked about there reliability. It was suggested that the basic problem with 6 volt electrics on vehicles is that they are working at twice as much amperage as 12 volt vehicles, putting much more strain on the battery. I was told that by halving the voltage you are doubling the amperage, I guess part of Ohms Law. The same is apparently true of jumping to 24 volts from 12 volts, you halve the amperage, it was suggested. The experience of 6 volt vehicles was not favourable, I was told.

    I am not a qualified electrical engineer and so I am not able to confirm the above principle but perhaps someone else can, please?

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    Contributing Member Aussie48's Avatar
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    Your right for example to run a 1 hp motor on 6 volts would require 124 amps the same motor on 12 volts would require 62 amps

    Dick

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    8 Volt Battery

    Years ago, while there were still a few 6 volt cars on the road in daily service, they would be brought to our shop for repairs. We installed 8 volt batteries in place of the 6 volt. The voltage increase wasn't enough to cause any problems as replacing a 6 volt battery with a 12 volt battery would, but it sure would liven up a 6 volt starter.

    We did this quite a few times, with only compliments from our customers.

    A quick look at the internet shows 8 volt lead acid batteries still available.

    HTH

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  12. #46
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    How interesting, never heard of 8 volt car batteries in the U.K..

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    Senior Member l1a1 breakdown's Avatar
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    Off to Blasting!

    So the Moggy left its temp holding location to visit a very good friend who bends metal and paints amongst the best I have ever know. A few "before" shots here - almost at the most dismal bottom of the project "down curve" - about to level out and move forward with some promise.

    The turret will be with me for a while - I am looking forward to detail hatches and smoke projector bracket.

    Am building myself a workshop at last. Am acquiring tools and machines quickly. Will set about getting a 1978 Jaguar XJS to run again this weekend (after beating the Prince of Darkness) - it will trade places with the Morris for shiny paint treatments next year. I also have a 1937 Ford farm truck as a garden ornament now - its well worth restoring and will probably be dedicated to my Dad for working around the farm when complete - he's a '37 model too (truck is in better shape).

    Happy Thanksgiving to all those that have ever braved the Atlantic and Resettlement - short sharp words to the rest
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    Really Senior Member 30Three's Avatar
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    If you need any info getting the Jag XJS running; let me know. I cut my teeth on those many years ago and should still have some tech info stashed away somewhere! PM me if you need help.

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  17. #49
    Senior Member l1a1 breakdown's Avatar
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    Our band of restorers now has a Facebook forum and is interacting with 2 other groups in the UKicon, both with Morris LRC restorations. It seems between all of us we can put at least one authentic / period vehicle back together. We will learn to fabricate and replace the missing and rotten pieces from each others examples. One of the groups is Weddle Engineering. A short run market has materialized Along with 6 or so experts - should be easy to cover all the vehicles systems thoroughly between us

    ---------- Post added at 08:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------

    If you need any info getting the Jag XJS running; let me know. I cut my teeth on those many years ago and should still have some tech info stashed away somewhere! PM me if you need help.
    Thanks 30Three! My eldest is keen to learn, restore and drive it. Its the 1978 Bosch fuel injected straight 6. A semi-familiar beast to me. Seems the various starter cut out switches defeated the previous owners thinking to get it running - they tore into the fuel pump...need to have a driver on the seat, seat belt on, in Park or Neutral and ensure the inertia switch is working - then turn the key to a signal to the fuel pump and a then the starter will turn... Am just checking relay and wire condition right now - then onto undoing a little hacking and splicing..

  18. #50
    Really Senior Member 30Three's Avatar
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    If the XJS is a 1978 It should be a 5,3 litre V12. The 6 cylinder 3,6 came out around 1983 if I remember correctly. That was the last year of my apprenticeship at the Jag factory.
    The USAicon market spec may have had extra start safety's that I'm not aware of.
    But the most common faults for no starting are the ignition amplifier; originally they were fitted in the Vee of the engine and basically got too hot. So a modification was to fit it in front of the engine on the upper radiator cover panel. But they can still pack up!
    The 78 V12's have a magnetic trigger for the fuel injection that is inside the ignition distributor; a magnet inside the rotor arm passes over two micro switches; that fire the injectors via the fuel injection module. I've seen the switches pack up so you only get half a dose of fuel.

    PM me if you need any advice and I'll try and help.



    Looking forward to the progress on the Morris.

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