M1 Carbine - Would You Buy This??

[imntxs554]

Well I decided to buy it. I got it for a lesser price.
I also got a 5 day inspection/return policy.
The seller also gave me license to attempt to remove the yellow.
He said that if I tried to remove the yellow and was still not satisfied, I could return it within the 5 days.
My thought is that it is a true original and with a little TLC I can bring it back to its glory.
If not, I have nothing to lose.
I took a chance like this once before.
I picked up a D-Loop US WWII Helmet that had been painted gold by the Vet's son.
If you do not know about helmets, the D-Loop is the most rare of US helmets from WWII.
They are very expensive as they were used by paratroopers.
I used "Goof Off" and rubbed the gold paint off with a cloth and my finger.
Here are a few before and after shots.

Anyway, now I am asking for suggestions for removal of the yellow.
The seller said he thinks that it may be dried linseed oil.

I'm glad you bought it..Good for you ! Just like I mentioned before I would have in a Heartbeat even it he didn't go down on price. Then you score a great return policy. But don't don't return it. This is a Great Buy. You did good....Real good !

[Seaspriter]

Is it just me or does it look like the varnish was slathered all over it to cover up the fact that it was nickel or silver plated at one time.

Once you get it off post a picture as I would like to see what it looks like under that gunk.

My guess is that Bubba got his grubby hands on this gun and removed all the Parkerizing on the receiver, trigger guard, rear sight, and front sight (maybe with a wire wheel); then applied some gunk (linseed oil or varnish, etc.) to attempt to keep the metal looking shiny (I remember doing something foolish like this when I was a kid). The whole mess failed -- the curse of Bubba. Professional bead blasting on the rusty areas and reParkerizing may be in order.

[USGI]

From what I saw in the GB pictures, the BLO is only on the exposed metal and not on under the wood. There may be some rust and pitting, also some bright metal underneath - I still like it. Probably the original owner was just trying to take care of it the best he could. It likely came from a home heated with a wood stove. - Bob

[Patrick Chadwick]

nyway, now I am asking for suggestions for removal of the yellow. The seller said he thinks that it may be dried linseed oil

OK, so now you've got it. And you have to clean it up, at least partially, to decide whether it's worth keeping. Believe me, you will keep it, because the more time you invest in improving it, the more it becomes "your" rifle and the less you are inclined to give it back - and thus give away your efforts! How can I be so sure of that? Well a look at some of the sad pieces I have refurbished will give you a clue.

So let's get it right. First rule is: to do what an armorer would have done in the past to keep the rifle functioning properly is IMHO legitimate maintenance. So we start with careful cleaning. That means beginning with the gentlest means, and only if they fail progressing to more drastic measures.

1) Obtain a large plastic box or tray, preferably compartmentalized.
2) Also obtain, or be able to get at short notice:
- A small bottle of naturalturpentine, not turpentine substitute!
- A small quantity of linseed oil
- A small bottle of denaturized alcohol - we call it methylated spirits or meths over here, but I have been advised that this could lead to misunderstanding in the US!
- Jelly-type paint stripper
- Acetone
- Old linen or cotton rags
- A roll of paper kitchen towelling.

3) Dismantle the gun carefully, until you are down to the naked woodwork. Place the bits in the compartmentalized box.

4) Wipe over the wood with a rag moistened in turpentine. If you are lucky, and the finish really is linseed oil, the turpentine will soften it and then dissolve it, as will be revealed by yellowish smears on the rag. With a bit of elbow grease you should then be able to polish up the surface by using the turpentine-moistened rag without using any chemicals.
5) If turpentine does not soften the finish, then it is not (alas!) linseed oil. Try acetone.
6) If acetone doesn't work, use the jelly stripper. Clean up afterwards with the alcohol.
7) At no stage do you need to use water
8) At no stage do you need to use heat
9) At no stage do you need to use sandpaper

10) Whatever works on the woodwork - use the same to clean up the metal parts.

After doing this, you will have a collection of parts that look a great deal more attractive. You will also be able to form a better judgement of the state of those parts. If you have rust anywhere, that can also be dealt with. But before I launch off into too much detail, you may find it useful - and encouraging - to take a look at this thread, which shows how a dismal wreck can be turned back into a properly functioning rifle:
Argentino M1879 Rolling Block. Is it worth restoring?

[shadycon]

Very good thread on restoration!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Anton67]

Thank you for all of your input.
The more the merrier.
I am not going to sand it.
If the substance will not come off with chemicals I will not sand it and scratch it up.
From the photos and what the seller told me, I do not think the same substance is on the stock.
I am hoping to leave the stock alone.
I think here less will be more.
Like Patrick said, start with the least powerful chemical and move up gradually IF necessary.
I also do not think the gun is shiny under the yellow substance.
I think that is just the way it looks in the photos.
I probably will not get it until this Friday but I will definitely keep you all posted.
I will likely be seeking opinions once I have done my best cleaning job.

BTW, it is nice to have everyone rooting for me.
I am sure I will get this rifle cleaned up.
I am very determined.
Frankly, I hated to see a gun with all early parts which are matching and correct be left in such a poor state.
I am still hoping to make it collectible.

[imntxs554]

I'm curious about the Springs....I think he will need to replace all the Springs or when there clean maybe a couple will be okay. But if this was my Carbine I would find New Springs for it. Not knowing EXACTLY what the guy did or used to have it look like this is why, but some might of been saturated with what he did to it and the performance of the springs might not be so good.

Frank

[Bill Hollinger]

Thank you for all of your input.
The more the merrier.
I am not going to sand it.
If the substance will not come off with chemicals I will not sand it and scratch it up.
From the photos and what the seller told me, I do not think the same substance is on the stock.
I am hoping to leave the stock alone.
I think here less will be more.
Like Patrick said, start with the least powerful chemical and move up gradually IF necessary.
I also do not think the gun is shiny under the yellow substance.
I think that is just the way it looks in the photos.
I probably will not get it until this Friday but I will definitely keep you all posted.
I will likely be seeking opinions once I have done my best cleaning job.

BTW, it is nice to have everyone rooting for me.
I am sure I will get this rifle cleaned up.
I am very determined.
Frankly, I hated to see a gun with all early parts which are matching and correct be left in such a poor state.
I am still hoping to make it collectible.

You had better take a grip of before, during and after photos of this project and share them with us! I can't wait to see the end product!

[Anton67]

OK fellas, I got the gun in the mail today.
I took it all apart (took metal out of stock, took trigger group from receiver, took bolt and charging handle off).
It took me a while to get the bolt out and the charging handle off. It was very tight.
The barrel is as promised - beautiful.
The stock is in excellent condition. That "crack" was quite exaggerated by the photos. No real crack and no need to repair.
The bolt is beautiful and bluing is good shape.
No need for new springs or anything because other than the yellow stuff and some minor freckling on the barrel the rifle is in good shape.
I tried to use turpentine and mineral spirits.
Turpentine did not do much but mineral spirits took some of the yellow off using a rag.
I then went to acetone.
Acetone seems to be working. I have not been at it long and have stopped for the night but I think I got a lot of it off. Metal still has yellowing which looks worse when you wipe CLP over it.
However, I am not finished. I just went over the yellow areas rubbing with a rag dipped in acetone.
I would say I got about 70% or more of the yellow off.
QUESTION: Would you soak any of the parts in turpentine?
Also, when I am done using turpentine, should I wipe down those areas with CLP or something else?
I will take photos tomorrow but the photos seem to make it look worse. Here are a few.
Again, I really just started and the photos make it look worse than it looks in person. Every time I wipe with a rag and turpentine more yellow seems to come off.
Would you guys suggest anything more abrasive?

[Seaspriter]

QUESTION: Would you soak any of the parts in turpentine?
Also, when I am done using turpentine, should I wipe down those areas with CLP or something else?
I will take photos tomorrow but the photos seem to make it look worse. Here are a few.
Again, I really just started and the photos make it look worse than it looks in person. Every time I wipe with a rag and turpentine more yellow seems to come off.
Would you guys suggest anything more abrasive?

Thanks Anton and good luck.
First, Turpentine (which is the natural version of Mineral Spirits -- they are nearly the same chemically) will not hurt metal -- you could soak for a year with no adverse results. Try letting it sit overnight and see what happens in the morning. The other alternative is to soak overnight in acetone, but be sure to cover the container tightly or it will evaporate very rapidly.
Second, if turpentine doesn't work and acetone doesn't work, you can try ammonia, which removes varnish.
Third, if these don't work, try using a strong paint remover (if this is varnish, the paint remover will remove it)
Fourth, if these don't work, you may have oil that baked on, in which case use oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide).
(BTW, Vincent on this site is a chemical whiz. I'll bet he has ideas if you PM him.)
Fifth, avoid abrasives that would scratch the finish -- you've got some pretty good metal work, don't scratch it. You could consider bead blasting with a low abrasive (like crushed walnuts perhaps), but you don't want to etch the surface too deeply.

Good Luck