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Thread: mildew and mold on gunstock

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    mildew and mold on gunstock

    A friend at the gun club has a stock that he says has developed mold or mildew because the storage area got damp. He asked me how to get it off and my first thought is wipe it with a bleach solution, but he's afraid it will harm the stock and or finish. I haven't had to try this technique but it seems safe enough to me - in theory.

    Has anyone clean stocks of mildew and mold? Will bleach solution work safely? Or is there a better method??

    Thanks for your help with this.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Don't use bleach. I'd use a volatile mineral spirit and a scotchbrite pad to remove the spotting. Use an oil like Watco Danishicon on the wood after to rejuvenate after complete drying...
    Regards, Jim

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    Vinegar/water/50-50.
    Ed

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    Thanks guys, I appreciate the ideas and when I see this guy at tomorrows club meeting I'll pass them on.

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    Mold and Mildew in wood can be either superficial or it can be invasive. It thrives in warm, dark spaces that have high humidity. I would recommend your friend remove the stock and inspect the places where mold is not normally visible. Be sure it hasn't invaded the wood (mold is destructive). Give it a good soaking in mineral spirits if mold is found to have set in. Walnut is the best wood for resisting mold as the wood actually contains a fungicide. Maple, birch, and beech are far more susceptible and require more detailed attention.

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    If it is just on the surface you can preserve the original finish by dry rubbing the mold off with 0000 steel wool. I did this on my MkI* Ross restoration elsewhere on this site

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    Another option is to let the wood sit in a 55 degree (Celsius) convection oven for about for 15-30 minutes, depending on the stock's size. This will dry out any living (micro)organism, works great too when you have wood worms. Prevents you from have to rework the stock.
    Just make sure the wood is "room dry" before the treatment and that you let the stock warm up gradually in the oven. Remove steel pieces where possible.

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    I've used low concentration hydrogen peroxide from the drug store for years on antique leather and wood. Catalase in the mold will cause the H2O2 to oxidize and kill the mold. The residue is H2O and O2. Wipe the water away and you'll be set to go.

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    I would not go putting a stock in an oven, we had a shooter who was caught in the rain with his full bore rifle took the action/barrel out and left the stock next to a wood fire heater in the house and next morning hey presto ruined stock was like a bannana

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    What about putting it in the freezer? That seems to kill everything

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