Armourers Tool ID needed 3.

[Peter Laidler]

All Armourers had their own tools that they made up to suit a particular job. I still have some that I still use. Some issue tools were a bit.........., er........... well, crap wouldn't be too unkind a word. You used them religiously and labourously as apprentices and binned them as soon as you got into the real world. Examples of perfect tools were the Armourers brace and the bits and the sheer quality of the old fashioned files and other hand tools. On the other hand, useful but useless, the foresight cramps and the like. Totally useless, extractor removal tool for the L1A1 and the Enfield breeching up stuff.

I simply can't imagine why anyone is ecstatic about this find to be honest. Worth preserving, yes but it needs sorting out into what it SHOULD be and SHOULD contain. The bore gauges should all be marked and only when they're marked and the SM number identified can we tell what they're for. Another thing is that once you let the enthusiastic amateurs loose on some of these special tools and onto their rifles.....................

These chests did exist in our Army, NZ (used the UK chest with an attachable vice and legs) and Oz of course but don't remember seeing them actually USED as such after the 60's as we had mobile workshops in a shared Bedford QL or RL or a LWB Land Rover kitted out. I think Tankhunter will have a CES

Repairs to the drawers. Done plenty of them but after a while you just come to know how far to cut back and angles to cut. Of course, we didn't use copper blocks. My boss in NZ advised me to repair drawers with hardwood across the grain to face the body drawers as I have illustrated on this forum

[Surpmil]

Based on the above comments, why not try it with the "T" shaped piece in the trigger guard recesses, with the leg of the "T" as it were, towards the muzzle and the radii on the outer corners of the "crossbar" of the "T" plate fitting tightly into the radii at the back outer corners of the trigger guard recess? Then try the thick plate as a clamp to hold down shims inserted to repair or modify the draws. If the shims were left a little long, the downward pressure of a clamp such as that plate would force them back against the corresponding "shoulder" in the stock, and down into the wood of the stock at the bottom of the draws.

[Peter Laidler]

As Rob has raised the thread again... The problem in the real world of Armourers shops etc etc is just how difficult do you make the tools and gadgets that do a particular job. Take the subject drawers holding gadget.......... I've done a few sets of drawers in my time. Not on a factory floor production line basis of course but once you've got the hang of doing the first few it becomes second nature. Especially if you've learned a bit more from your pal and copied the bloke opposite etc etc.

A brilliant example of what I'm talking about was a special tool for removing the driving or return spring from the rear of the .30" M1919/L3 Browning machine guns. In the REAL world in which we inhabit, this was done by holding the breech block, rear downwards onto a block of soft wood nailed to the edge of your work bench. Press down slightly then a slight twist to release the retainer pin from the recess and swiftly raise the breech block about 18" or so. This way the driving rod and spring were released, under control and without any danger to anyone. Even the tank crews were taught this way in order to clean the guns after firing. It's been perfect since, well....., 1919!

Then a few years ago I saw a 'special tool' to do the same job. Tubes, a clamp to retain it to the rear of the breech block, safety pins, screw threads, locking mechanisms plus a sort of slow-release clutch and, well all sorts of stuff. What a palava! It was suggested that this was used by Armourers in tanks. Not in any tanks I know of me old son! I did email the vendor to ask what tanks he had seen this gadget in and where might the tank crew/gunner keep this useless gadget while the tank was charging forwards on the main battle run.

I'm firmly in the K.I.S.S. camp if that's not a play on words.......

[Flying10uk]

The jig or fixture is not exactly an outstanding piece of tool-making and was probably just "knocked" up quickly to get someone out of trouble. Over the years I have produced hundreds of jigs and fixtures, often little more than a steel plate with a couple of pins and perhaps a couple of screw threads, just to hold specific jobs for machining but not exactly engineering masterpieces.

[Bindi2]

Our farm work shop had a storage shelf for what we called special tools. Things made to do a job then kept for when it had to be done again. Looked like a scrap metal pile wow and betide anyone who thought so.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

My Dad had an interesting collection of "home-made" tools for working on cars.

I remember a box of odd-looking gizmos marked "Door-handle tools"; these were for removing and replacing interior door handles and window winders without damaging the interior vinyl liner panel.

There were other boxes marked for "odd job" gizmos used on everything from the Model "T" to '60s vintage vehicles.

Similarly, my brother, the motor-cycle mechanic, has a large shed full of "special stuff" for fixing "classic" BMWs, Vincents, BSAs, Harleys etc. The home-grown, hydraulically-powered, frame straightener is the biggest one, but there are lots of gadgets to ease the struggle of assembly / alignment. disassembly, etc. Some of them have been made based on pictures from period service manuals and old trade magazines.

Even simple things like home-grown "slave pins" for aligning components before inserting the correct bolt, roll-pin etc., are invaluable aids as they reduce the temptation to use the 'bigger hammer" and profuse intemperate language.