1st post! Ishapore 2a1 sporter restoration

[henry r]

peter, a complete novice question here. with a twisted forend, would it be acceptable to plane down the high side, build up the low side, plug and re-drill the mount holes for the centre spring, nosecap and reseat the nosecap square. aka leave the wood twisted but re align/ true up the areas it contacts other parts of the rifle?

i understand that replacing the forend would be the army way, but over here even well used (ROUGH) full wood forends sell for around $250+ each on that auction site. plus they aren't making any more.

basically the thought of scrapping one full wood forend let alone two makes me cringe.

[MosinVirus]

peter, a complete novice question here. with a twisted forend, would it be acceptable to plane down the high side, build up the low side, plug and re-drill the mount holes for the centre spring, nosecap and reseat the nosecap square. aka leave the wood twisted but re align/ true up the areas it contacts other parts of the rifle?

i understand that replacing the forend would be the army way, but over here even well used (ROUGH) full wood forends sell for around $250+ each on that auction site. plus they aren't making any more.

basically the thought of scrapping one full wood forend let alone two makes me cringe.

I have actually seen only the new reproduction or new old stock for that much money. I bought both of mine from Numrich. They are coming warped though (based on the two I received).

Just FYI, I did force the nosecap into position on the first stock, and bedded it, repositioned the screw holes and bedded the screws, so not I have properly positioned holes.

But I would like to do it right. So until I find one thst is not warped, I will experiment, knowing full well that it isn't the right way, and that the wood may find its way back to its desired warped state in the future.

[Seaspriter]

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. linseed oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

[MosinVirus]

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. Linseed Oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

Thank you very much for this. I didn't think keeping it "locked up" for that long was needed. But I do believe the more the better. I will try this on the second forestock.

So, from what I understand, do whatever cleaning needed, so that if the wood is subjected to liquids, it is done before it us straightened, then, steam and clamp down in whatever fashion needed to straighten, let rest for a couple of weeks as it slowly loses moisture, then oil liberally to lock in condition.

I guess dunking the wood in hot linseed oil would ensure deep and thorough penetration that is consistent throughout. What would be a good alternative if one doesn't have a vat large enough for this? Also, I don't think using BLO for this would work due to added dryers, but I may be wrong.

[Seaspriter]

I guess dunking the wood in hot linseed oil would ensure deep and thorough penetration that is consistent throughout. What would be a good alternative if one doesn't have a vat large enough for this? Also, I don't think using BLO for this would work due to added dryers, but I may be wrong.

Here's the easiest, cheapest way to do this:

1. Obtain a "crock pot" (or similar) that has a heating control that will keep the liquid in the hot (but not boiling) range. (there's probably one in your kitchen)
2. Get a piece of PVC 3" pipe (2" might fit -- check the measurements) cut to about 3' long. Screw or glue a cap to one end.
3. Put the pipe, cap side down, vertically into the crock pot, then fill the crock pot with water, and turn up heat. Tie down the pipe so it is stable.
4. Put the fore end into the pipe.
5. Fill the pipe with boiled linseed oil.
6. Put a meat thermometer in the oil to check temperature.
7. Let this continue for 1-2 days.
8. Remove the fore end and let the oil drip into a pan until it stops.
9. Then burnish the surface with rapid motion with an old towel to remove excess and help polymerize the surface.
10. Don't put it in the sun to dry as that could actually warp the wood.

[MosinVirus]

Here's the easiest, cheapest way to do this:

1. Obtain a "crock pot" (or similar) that has a heating control that will keep the liquid in the hot (but not boiling) range. (there's probably one in your kitchen)
2. Get a piece of PVC 3" pipe (2" might fit -- check the measurements) cut to about 3' long. Screw or glue a cap to one end.
3. Put the pipe, cap side down, vertically into the crock pot, then fill the crock pot with water, and turn up heat. Tie down the pipe so it is stable.
4. Put the fore end into the pipe.
5. Fill the pipe with boiled linseed oil.
6. Put a meat thermometer in the oil to check temperature.
7. Let this continue for 1-2 days.
8. Remove the fore end and let the oil drip into a pan until it stops.
9. Then burnish the surface with rapid motion with an old towel to remove excess and help polymerize the surface.
10. Don't put it in the sun to dry as that could actually warp the wood.

That is some really good info. Thank you,

[henry r]

I have actually seen only the new reproduction or new old stock for that much money. I bought both of mine from Numrich. They are coming warped though (based on the two I received).

lee enfields and their parts are more expensive in Australia. in a way it's funny as they sold tens of thousands off surplus back in the day.

[MosinVirus]

Folks, I'm not going to tell you I've actually done what I'm proposing here, so this is more in the line of an experiment -- Which I have done successfully on old furniture -- but NOT on a gun stock (only because I've never had the problem). What I am writing below is based on educated assumptions, not as an expert, but having some experience with this problem. Please correct me if I'm off base!

1. Kiln Drying: As far as I'd assume, military stocks are made of Kiln Dried wood (which was stacked and dehumidified), so that it is straight when taken out of the kiln and brought to the stock maker.

2. linseed oil: The reason stocks were hot-dipped for 24 hours in linseed oil was to fill the wood pores with oil, which limited their ability to dry out and possibly warp.

3. Why does wood warp? Unless it was put into a contorted position by force, wood warps because one side dries out (the wood cells contract) while the other side stays stable (filled with oil or humidity), thus twisting the wood.

4. What Steaming Does: Steaming puts moisture back into the wood, and hot steam makes the wood pliable. When taking out of the steaming vehicle, one twists the wood to the form one wants, lets it dry, and it should hold this position for years. (this is how a hooped back Windsor chair is made.)

5. What to do after Steaming: After steaming, twist the wood back to the desired position (perhaps a tad accentuated because it may have a tendency to snap back just a bit), and let it dry for 2-3 weeks held into this position to let the humidity stabilize. Once dry, dunk in 120-130 (F) [50 C] BLO for at least 24 hours to fill the wood pores with oil.

This process should keep the wood stable for years to come.

I am going to try this on the second forestock. It has been steamed, now clamped and will remain there for a while. Meanwhile I will be finishing what I already have and figuring out a way to get that oil setup you mentioned.

[MosinVirus]

Well, since I am playing with what I have now, and seeing how the handguards meet the forestock, I am now questioning whether they should be blended.
Can someone let me know if the wood pieces should align on all sides with each other? I started shaping to align already seeing how the search for good wood will continue, but wanted to check anyway.

Please let me know. Also, what should I do with the butt stock bolt? Or rather with the Butt Stock? Currently, the bolt screws in, but by the time the bolt head collapses the spring washer, the bolt only goes about half way (if that) into the socket. Is that enough of a grab?

[mmppres]

great job keep going