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Thread: Buttstock plug removal issues, or the cause of my mental breakdown

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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobD View Post
    Excuse my ignorance, but why did the Lee Enfield need a butt plug?
    Don't ask, don't tell...

    ---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian B View Post
    I have used the coat hanger trick in the past. I picked up one of these last year and it seems to do the trick as it was designed to do.

    Brian B

    SMLE Wad Removal Tool (brass) - BRP CORP Store
    I found it last night, and I was going to try the clothes hanger trick first. It was, alas, unsuccessful.

    ---------- Post added at 10:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Homer View Post
    Your probably aware but if your not, the forend must be removed first.
    That was on my "don't miss this part" list, but it appears that someone in the rifle's past was unaware of that requirement.

    ---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:44 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    We had a little tool in our Armourers basic tool kit. TOOL, removing, wad, stock-bolt. I'm totally bemused as to why you just didn't look down the 3/4" hole with a torch whereupon the answer would have been obvious
    I can see the plug with a bore light, but what is in the hole of the rifle appears to be packed wadding. It have seen replacement plugs online, and they have a hole in the center. In my rifle. it appears to be pack wadding possibly wool from the look of it and is solid.

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  3. #12
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    There may be a patch or something in the way so you need to fish it out first. Then fish out the leather washer. If someone has tightened the buttstock bolt with the forend fitted, the damage can be catastrophic. I've seen it too many times.

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    Got it!! There was no leather plug. It was a packed wad of cotton. I used a screwdriver to sort of of push the cotton more to one side of the channel. Then, I used the coat hanger to get behind the wadding and pull it out. The screw came out and out came the butt stock! Now I have the barrel and receiver sitting in come mineral spirits to get the rest of the cosmolineicon and crud off.

    Thanks for everyone's help and advice. Have a great weekend!

    ---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:18 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    There may be a patch or something in the way so you need to fish it out first. Then fish out the leather washer. If someone has tightened the buttstock bolt with the forend fitted, the damage can be catastrophic. I've seen it too many times.
    Yeah, my fore end is cracked, but it looks like there was a depot repair as there is a metal brace in there with a wooden shim to shore the bottom channel up. It looks like a butchered job, but it does not move. My gunsmith put five test rounds through it, and it does not appear to have moved. I suspect this may be just my first Lee-Enfield with a long-term shooter to come later. I don't see a lot of stocks out there for sell or trade like you do with Garands.

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    The metal stock plate should be present. It's not a repair. I'm not sure about the wooden shim. Maybe it's a patch of some sort? You'll see where the squared off end of the stock bolt should fit properly into the plate. I recommend getting a copy of Ian Skennertonicon's Small Arms ID Series booklet, (S.A.I.S. #1), on the SMLE. It has the illustrated parts catalogue included and is great value at $10. I have them in stock or you can get them direct from http://www.skennerton.com.

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    If you remove all the grease, make sure that you replace it. There should be a good thick greasy layer of grease between the wood and the metal. It's there for a purpose

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    If you remove all the grease, make sure that you replace it. There should be a good thick greasy layer of grease between the wood and the metal. It's there for a purpose
    Peter, unfortunately, I noticed this post after I cleaned most of it off. But, I shot it this weekend (about 60 rounds), and it shot much better than I expected/feared. We did not measure as we were having too much fun. I am a Garandicon and 1903 man at heart, but I could easily see myself making space in my heart for a few Lithgowicon SMLE's.

    As I apparently now have to restore the grease in-between the barrel and the channel, is there any source as to what kind of grease I should use and how thick of a layer I should apply? I need to take it down again to put a coat of BLOicon on the stock. The buttstock is VERY dry. I can add the grease while I have it taken down.

    ---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:49 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    The metal stock plate should be present. It's not a repair. I'm not sure about the wooden shim. Maybe it's a patch of some sort? You'll see where the squared off end of the stock bolt should fit properly into the plate. I recommend getting a copy of Ian Skennertonicon's Small Arms ID Series booklet, (S.A.I.S. #1), on the SMLE. It has the illustrated parts catalogue included and is great value at $10. I have them in stock or you can get them direct from http://www.skennerton.com.
    I will post a picture after the next tear down. It shot well and did not split. So, I can live with it regardless of whether it's perfect or not.

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    Probably not going to be the prettiest stock set, but the have both Birch and walnut available. Both types are from former Drill Purpose rifles, with free shipping.

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    Last edited by AFJon; 04-27-2016 at 11:49 PM. Reason: added free shipping
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    AFJon,

    Do you ship up into Canadaicon?.........yes, I know free shipping won't apply!
    Thinking of wood and parts, not mags as I know they are a no-no for some reason. :-)

    Best,
    Richard.

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    The grease to use is GREASE, XG-279 but those in the know tell me that it is the same as commercially available high temperature wheel bearing grease!. Make sure that you slap g good layer of it between the wood and the steel. You rarely see rusty grease!

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    Im led to believe Castrol LM is the same as XG-279.

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