+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Italian Vitterli 1874/1886

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Legacy Member Humpy70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Last On
    06-15-2021 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    20
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    09:30 AM

    Italian Vitterli 1874/1886

    Just became the proud owner of a 1874 Torino Arsenal rifle reworked in 1886 by Torino today.

    So far I have figured the sear surface on the striker is very dangerous and needs to be TIG welded to restore the sear surface as closing the bolt without holding back of bolt down it will sear off with a out of battery bolt handle. If I can get it to hold about a 1/2 pound on the trigger will set it off.

    That I can take care of. I will get a buddy to TIG weld the sear surface and build it up about .050" and then stone it off. I will not attempt to fire it till I am sure it is not going to sear off out of battery.


    My problem is that I can't figure out how to get the bolt out of the rifle. Just to the rear of the magazine cut off is a another area. At 3:00 on the bolt there is a slot that looks like it is for a screwdriver. On the same piece about 12:00 there is something that looks like it needs to move forward into a opening on the mag cut off ring.

    Have the bolt apart, just can figure out how to get the bolt body out??????
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

  2. #2
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 12:54 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,897
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    06:30 AM
    Is there a key affair at the rear of the bolt, lying crosswise to the bolt? It should be hooking onto the extractor and holds the square top part from being pulled out. The key needs to be driven out to one side but it doesn't come out. Then the bolt will remove.
    Regards, Jim

  3. Thank You to browningautorifle For This Useful Post:


  4. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  5. #3
    Legacy Member Humpy70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Last On
    06-15-2021 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    20
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    09:30 AM
    Thread Starter
    Found out all about it with some great pics.

    Yesterday's Weapons Forums View topic - Vetterli bolt removal - a photo tutorial

    Apparently it takes two screwdrivers pushing two different directions while rifle held in vice! ! !

  6. #4
    Legacy Member Humpy70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Last On
    06-15-2021 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    20
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    09:30 AM
    Thread Starter
    Update: I got two screwdrivers and while I pushed forward on one I pushed on the one at 3:00 and nothing. Then I realized it would probably work better pushing wards and it started to move.

    Got it up to where the screw is exposed and got out my Brownell's screwdriver kit and found the right screwdriver and after soaking started working it back and forth and it moved. Soaked it some more and it moved more and finally came out.

    I put that little sucker in a magnet parts bowl immediately and along with the block that came out after I took a steel bristle wheel to bolt and got off all the dried up oil and rust from probably a hundred years of disuse.

    I then started working on the bore and to my surprise I am seeing shiney spots appear but I don't have a 44 cal brush so I wrapped patches soaked with Ed's Red (ER) and made a bunch more passes and more shiney area appeared.

    I took a 45 cal cast bullet and tapped the ogive into the muzzle and squirted ER down the chamber end and it did not leak so I filled the entire bore all the way to the end of the chamber with ER and I am going to let it soak for a week which should loosen anything.

  7. #5
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 12:54 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,897
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    06:30 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Humpy70 View Post
    dried up oil and rust from probably a hundred years of disuse.
    Yes, that was where I was. Once I removed the rust it worked by fingers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Humpy70 View Post
    a 45 cal cast bullet
    I had to make ammo for mine, a center fire, and used primed 348 cases cut at the shoulder and filled with FFF black. I poured a wax plug and used a 240 gr .44 bullet and with iron sights could keep them on 18" square at 200 yd offhand. Throw in the bullet, chamber the blank and touch off. It was a decent barrel too...lots of fun.
    Regards, Jim

  8. #6
    Legacy Member Humpy70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Last On
    06-15-2021 @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    20
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    09:30 AM
    Thread Starter
    Thought I would give you guys a update on how the resurrection is going. Got delayed due to spinal surgery and four heart procedures ending up in tripple bypass.

    As of today the Vett is sporting a M14icon front sight which now allows me to shoot POA/POI at 100 yards. Here is how I mounted it.

    Note the factory front sight is not center of the bore line. To get zeroed I had to have the new sight a tad left.









    As of today I can obtain POA/POI at 100 yards shooting a 257 Gr. Lyman cast bullet over 17.5 gr 2400. Made cases from Jamison 348 Win brass.

    Bore cleaned up beautifully.

  9. #7
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 12:54 AM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    29,897
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    06:30 AM
    Don't get how you came to that , although you may have to doctor it and smooth it up to function correctly. That was the cross piece I was talking about though.
    Regards, Jim

  10. #8
    Legacy Member sshackle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Last On
    04-14-2024 @ 11:17 AM
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska USA
    Posts
    11
    Local Date
    04-16-2024
    Local Time
    05:30 AM
    Thanks the info. I am working on getting my 1870/87 Vetterli shooting. I posted it and photos yesterday. I order a Lee die for 330 gr. .430 bullet the i plan to alter for a heeled bullet. I bought formed brass from Ammunition Artifacts.



+ Reply to Thread

Similar Threads

  1. Photo of 1874 Gras bolt stop screw
    By Calfed in forum Black Powder
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-24-2013, 09:31 PM
  2. 'Nomadic' St. Etienne Gras 1874/80 carbine.
    By Anzac15 in forum Milsurps General Discussion Forum
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-29-2012, 12:17 PM
  3. Cleaning question: French 1874 Gras bayonet
    By Aragorn243 in forum Edged Weapons Forum
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-28-2011, 08:11 AM
  4. Lebel 1886 - 93
    By rdj94a in forum Ammunition and Reloading for Old Milsurps
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-11-2010, 07:40 PM
  5. New Rifle 1886
    By 1941WillysMB in forum Other U.S. Service Rifles
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-15-2009, 04:26 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts