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  1. #1
    Member Humpy70's Avatar
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    Italian Vitterli 1874/1886

    Just became the proud owner of a 1874 Torino Arsenal rifle reworked in 1886 by Torino today.

    So far I have figured the sear surface on the striker is very dangerous and needs to be TIG welded to restore the sear surface as closing the bolt without holding back of bolt down it will sear off with a out of battery bolt handle. If I can get it to hold about a 1/2 pound on the trigger will set it off.



    That I can take care of. I will get a buddy to TIG weld the sear surface and build it up about .050" and then stone it off. I will not attempt to fire it till I am sure it is not going to sear off out of battery.


    My problem is that I can't figure out how to get the bolt out of the rifle. Just to the rear of the magazine cut off is a another area. At 3:00 on the bolt there is a slot that looks like it is for a screwdriver. On the same piece about 12:00 there is something that looks like it needs to move forward into a opening on the mag cut off ring.

    Have the bolt apart, just can figure out how to get the bolt body out??????

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Is there a key affair at the rear of the bolt, lying crosswise to the bolt? It should be hooking onto the extractor and holds the square top part from being pulled out. The key needs to be driven out to one side but it doesn't come out. Then the bolt will remove.
    Regards, Jim

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    Member Humpy70's Avatar
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    Thread Starter
    Found out all about it with some great pics.

    Yesterday's Weapons Forums View topic - Vetterli bolt removal - a photo tutorial

    Apparently it takes two screwdrivers pushing two different directions while rifle held in vice! ! !

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    Don't get how you came to that , although you may have to doctor it and smooth it up to function correctly. That was the cross piece I was talking about though.
    Regards, Jim

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    Member Humpy70's Avatar
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    Update: I got two screwdrivers and while I pushed forward on one I pushed on the one at 3:00 and nothing. Then I realized it would probably work better pushing wards and it started to move.

    Got it up to where the screw is exposed and got out my Brownell's screwdriver kit and found the right screwdriver and after soaking started working it back and forth and it moved. Soaked it some more and it moved more and finally came out.

    I put that little sucker in a magnet parts bowl immediately and along with the block that came out after I took a steel bristle wheel to bolt and got off all the dried up oil and rust from probably a hundred years of disuse.

    I then started working on the bore and to my surprise I am seeing shiney spots appear but I don't have a 44 cal brush so I wrapped patches soaked with Ed's Red (ER) and made a bunch more passes and more shiney area appeared.

    I took a 45 cal cast bullet and tapped the ogive into the muzzle and squirted ER down the chamber end and it did not leak so I filled the entire bore all the way to the end of the chamber with ER and I am going to let it soak for a week which should loosen anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Humpy70 View Post
    dried up oil and rust from probably a hundred years of disuse.
    Yes, that was where I was. Once I removed the rust it worked by fingers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Humpy70 View Post
    a 45 cal cast bullet
    I had to make ammo for mine, a center fire, and used primed 348 cases cut at the shoulder and filled with FFF black. I poured a wax plug and used a 240 gr .44 bullet and with iron sights could keep them on 18" square at 200 yd offhand. Throw in the bullet, chamber the blank and touch off. It was a decent barrel too...lots of fun.
    Regards, Jim

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