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Along with the angled slide, the ejector can help control the ejection angle. There are 3 different ejector shapes. Figure out which one you have then try the other two. They can have a big effect on the ejection angle.
When they tell you to behave, they always forget to specify whether to behave well or badly!
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08-03-2016 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by
jimb16
Along with the angled slide, the ejector can help control the ejection angle. There are 3 different ejector shapes. Figure out which one you have then try the other two. They can have a big effect on the ejection angle.
According to uscarbinecal30 I have a type 2 or type 3 ejector. I was leaning to type 3 ejector since in March 1943 it was reported that Inland had made the change already (mine is April assy.) and that only ones in service were fitted with type 2's (modified type 1's). But on having a closer look the curve on the top side of the cutout is a bit different and the notch at the top is still present, so mine must? be a type 2. Pics of mine show a type 2 (notched) plunger and a type 1 (faceted) ejector. Ref pic from uscarbinecal30.
ps. Needs a good cleaning. Although the debris is just dust and old grease now that I've seen it up close it has to go.
Any info out there on the ejection habits of the 3 types of ejectors?
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Lubriplate is fine. I certainly would get myself a bolt tool and take that apart. I do mine inside a large plastic bag so parts don't fly away. Inside the areas where the ejector and extractor plunger reside can be full of unburned powder, carbon chips and general dirt. This limits the travel and coats the spring coils. The parts will not work as well when dirty. The type 2 and three are similar with the 3 having more flat surface. The operating spring can also make a gun sluggish. Replacing the spring is a cheap last resort item. My two originals a 5.4 Inland and a 5.6 Win both have their original springs and operate flawlessly. The rebuilt NPM had a weak spring when it arrived from CMP
. Changing the spring made it work perfectly.
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Originally Posted by
DaveHH
Lubriplate is fine. I certainly would get myself a bolt tool and take that apart. I do mine inside a large plastic bag so parts don't fly away. Inside the areas where the ejector and extractor plunger reside can be full of unburned powder, carbon chips and general dirt. This limits the travel and coats the spring coils. The parts will not work as well when dirty. The type 2 and three are similar with the 3 having more flat surface. The operating spring can also make a gun sluggish. Replacing the spring is a cheap last resort item. My two originals a 5.4 Inland and a 5.6 Win both have their original springs and operate flawlessly. The rebuilt NPM had a weak spring when it arrived from
CMP. Changing the spring made it work perfectly.
Great suggestion about taking it apart inside a plastic bag. Don't have the tool yet. Could I get by for now with Break Free CLP or Birchwood Casey Synthetic Safe Gun Scrubber? I may have a can around here somewhere.
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