Range issues L1A1

[newcastle]

German schmerman / Austrian. My mistake. I have cleaned and checked the gas system for build up and assorted junk and it's clean.

[Peter Laidler]

In that case, go no further EXCEPT to show us a photo of the EXACT position of the action when it is jammed. Leave the cover off when you're shooting it and that shows everything clearly.

[Gil Boyd]

.......................or a video. Put money on the gas components being the problem. Are the gas plug ports cleaned too?

[Peter Laidler]

Unless it's a VERY/ULTRA slow motion Gil, it's useless for small arms analysis

[Brian Dick]

If it was built by "whoever" using a surplus Enfield L1A1 kit that's very tired, my guess would be Peter's diagnosis of a split or badly worn gas cylinder. I've had to replace several gas cylinders and pistons over they years, mostly from Century Arms builds and on a variety of different receivers. I doubt it's a magazine problem. I have a Canadian C1A1 clone built using an early "Entreprise Arms" receiver and it's perfect but I was very selective when choosing parts and have the EMERs and gauges to check them properly. Charlie, do you have a proper L1A1 User Handbook so you know how to set your gas flow properly? Available here if in need. I think I have one copy of the EMERS left in stock too. The absolute bible for working these weapons.

[newcastle]

Will call you tomorrow Brian to order said item. Can you have a quick check about for any spares you may have just in case

[mrclark303]

Are replacement gas tubes easily available in the States Brian?

[Brian Dick]

I'm not really sure how easy they are to obtain now. I think there are a couple of companies that still have nos Australian ones. I've been working from inventory obtained and imported from Canada in the late 90's early 2000's during the heyday of my importing. I was lucky to get a crate full of miscellaneous Canadian parts from a friend who obtained them from a retired RCEME Armourer. There were LE No.4, C1/C1A1, No.2 pistol and even C1 SMG parts in there.

Charlie, All of the gas cylinders I have are used but I'll get them out and measure them to find a good one. Do you need a piston too?

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Gas piston: "wear" / chrome loss.. Note: the piston should be fully chromed except for the last 20mm at the rear.

Gas block: cracked, misaligned, fouled.

Gas port, fouled.

Magazine lips; damaged / distorted.

Magazine spring (especially in "modified" mags): too strong / too weak / incorrect distribution of force on follower.

If you single-feed and fire a "NATO Spec" FACTORY round, i.e., one with the little cross in a circle on the case head, how far and in what direction does it throw the case?

Do "dummies" mis-feed when the rifle is "smartly cocked"?

Is the "return spring assembly" correct, complete and within spec. I mention that one because, at one stage, "the system" installed a whole bunch of "dud" ones. These went into rifles between the numbers AD 680001 and AD 681486 inclusive. There should to be TWO springs, one inside the other. The OUTER spring is wound "right hand" and the INNER is wound "left hand" to stop them binding with one another. ALL of those rifles were SUPPOSED to have been "inspected and made good" decades ago. Things done OUTSIDE the system?? A different matter altogether.

Before you go nuts with a big screwdriver and investigate, find someone with the CORRECT tool to remove and install the plug and spring set, otherwise you could get hurt AND, end up with bits of rifle all over the shed and NO WAY to re-assemble them.

IF you go nuts and remove the springs, the specs are as follows:

Basic:
Outer- 20 inches
Inner- 18 inches.

And NO RUST allowed!

When assembled in the rifle, the following applies:

With the bolt held open on the "hold-open device" and drawn to the rear with a "Tester, Trigger" or similar device, is to be not less than 13.5 pounds. At "Base" level and above, the spec is not less than 14.5 pounds. The "tester" is to be hooked over the front face of the carrier, NOT the cocking handle, (Body cover is off, of course).

The single biggest "killer" of these return springs is RUST. A quick romp through the "swamp" on your local obstacle course, not to forget a "lively" beach assault, can mean a total strip of the rifle to get the water out. This especially applies to the return spring assembly. Notice that there SHOULD be a drain / bleed / guide hole in the rear plug on the spring tube in the butt. Thus the water gets in and the water is supposed to drain out. You need to remove the butt-plate to get to this. See above for warnings.

Let us know how you get on.

[mrclark303]

Ah the good old L1 return springs, as Mike advised me a few years back
trying to install them without the tool "is like trying to feed wet spaghetti up a cats arse"!