What's wrong with my Ishapore?

[Chris Sweeney]

I have a .308 Ishapore that I've never shot, mostly because (I think) the safety acts funny. The only other SMLE I have is a .22 trainer, so I don't really have much of an understanding how these things are spoda work. This is what happens:

Cock the rifle and pull the safety lever back. Bolt is now locked.
Pull the trigger and you can hear the sear release. The safety lever moves back a mm. or so. I'm pretty sure this is a bad thing.
If I push the safety lever forward, the cocking piece jumps forward about 3/8" but not (I don't think) far enough for the firing pin to protrude. In order to clear this I have to pull the cocking piece back to the full cock position.

ANY ideas?

Information

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[Peter Laidler]

There is very definately something wrong with your rifle big time. Do not load a live round into it until I have come back to you early tomorrow morning UK time.

[Peter Laidler]

Whan you rotate the outer part of the safety rearwards, that part is the LEVER LOCKING and the multi-start thread moves the inner part, the SAFETY CATCH inwards. The safety catch only locks the bolt in the closed/down position.

The inner end of the LOCKING LEVER has a small half diameter half moon and as you rotate the lever, this half moon will also rotate and as it does so SHOULD slightly lever the cocking piece (and therefore the striker) away from ANY contact with the sear. Now, if you squeeze the trigger, it is totally disconnected from the cocking piece and is totally safe.
CLEARLY, YOUR COCKING PIECE IS NOT FULLY DISCONNECTED FROM THE SEAR and this is dangerous

It would appear that as you release the locking lever (and safety catch) the cocking piece goes forwards and falls into another safety part called 'half cock'. This prevents the rifle firing under certain circumstances.

You MUST get this fixed ASAP. It would appear that the half moon of the outer lever locking is worn away - or faulty.

Some of the more expert will come on board but suggest that a properly qualified Armourer with experience in these things take charge here. Safety related and all that is no place for enthusiastic amateurs or home gunsmiths I'm afraid.......... Good luck. Try Brian at BDL Ltd in SC. There are others of course

[Vincent]

SMLE Safety Catch They also have a selection of cocking pieces and other parts. SMLE No.1 Mk.3 Receiver, Bolt, & Sight Parts

[Peter Laidler]

When it comes to safety related issues I would always err on the side of caution. And even if Chris does get and fit the parts himself he MUST get it checked over by a competent person. Even if it's just a dry test that covers all the bases. And don't forget...., and we all know someone that has....., that an amateur can assemble the mechanism wrongly. And I freely admit that when I have worked on my car brakes I take it to my local friendly garage and put the car on the rolling brake tester.

I wonder if Chris will be back

[Chris Sweeney]

It gets uglier/more confusing. If I hold the safety lever back firmly, it works as it should. I continued the checkout and discovered that it doesn't headspace - the chamber is a bit short; a GO gauge will not close up all the way. A dummy cartridge with new Winchester .308 brass will, but one with new German 7.62x51 brass will not. Starting to feel like more of a bolt problem than a strictly safety lever problem. This is rapidly approaching the limit of my comfort zone!

If this were a Mauser or a Springfield I would be much more at ease; I understand them, but the whole SMLE action I find scary

[Peter Laidler]

Take it to someone who does feel at home and comfortable with it then - as suggested in thread 3!

[Vincent]

the chamber is a bit short; a GO gauge will not close up all the way.

I doubt it’s the chamber, Chris. A more likely culprit is the bolt head. That’s because there’s a selection of different sized bolt heads that are used to headspace the rifle.

With a lot of use over time, the receiver of these Ishapores can stretch, creating too much headspace. To rectify the excessive headspace a longer bolt head can be used. A bolt head that’s too long will not give enough headspace.

What you have written so far makes me think it is not a bad idea to follow Peter’s advice. That’s a safe way to go. Your rifle might just need a little tweaking or it might be past its safe useful life.

[Peter Laidler]

Just a little correction if I might be so bold Vince. It's not STRETCH in the body that is the cause of problems because bodies are never under tension and don't stretch as such. (They are always under compression and there was a long technical thread about this misunderstanding earlier somewhere*). The actual BOLT is also under compression and wear takes place at the locking shoulders on the bolt and in the body.

Now that it's been established that there is a mechanical safety problem AND a bolt/headspace issue, it definately needs a pro to sort it out.

*that's the reason our partially cut Bren in an earlier thread would function perfectly

[Chris Sweeney]

Well the headspace problem is solved - I think. The extractor hook tip was bent back and it had about a gajillion pound spring in it (it was also full of dried grease) With the extractor removed it headspaces OK on the GO gauge and doesn't close on the NOGO. Two more parts for the BRP order!