-
Legacy Member
back to the OP's original question. If you have 1 rifle then neck sizing is the way to go but you will need a full length die so get the 3 set.
the full length die will be needed if you get 1x fired brass and it needs to be sized to fit into your rifle or if you neck sized only cases start to become hard to chamber then full or partial resizing will cure that problem. partial resizing is done by adjusting the die down until it sizes the case to fit your chamber but not fully sizing the entire case. only full size if you need to bump the shoulder back.
not all dies are the same. I have several different sizing dies for this reason so you may find that the dies you buy dont match the chamber of your rifle. I use lee dies for the majority of my 303 reloading but also have herters and rcbs dies for my older rifles.
-
-
01-01-2017 05:16 PM
# ADS
Friends and Sponsors
-
Legacy Member
I never FL resize my .303. I use a FL die and just set the shoulder back a minute amount. I "smoke" the shoulder and thru trial and error adjust to where I am just touching the shoulder and then tighten the collar and use that on all my reloads.
Last edited by enfield303t; 01-01-2017 at 07:07 PM.
Why use a 50 pound bomb when a 500 pound bomb will do?
-
Thank You to enfield303t For This Useful Post:
-
-
FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
I do likewise, partial sizing with FL RCBS sizer and I haven't lost a case after 5 x reloading (= 6 firings) S&B factory ammo. However, I believe that chamber dimension is paramount. My rifle is a Savage N°4 Mk I* of 1943, FTR'd in Fazakerley 1953 when barrel and stock were replaced (bolt head 0).
-
Advisory Panel
In these last two cases though, you're dealing with ONE rifle and it's ammo? When you have several and different weapons as well...that won't do so well.
-
Thank You to browningautorifle For This Useful Post:
-
FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
I'll concede that, I'm custom loading for one particular rifle and realize that sizing for different guns/chambers complicates headspace management.
-
Contributing Member
One of the only reloader's who do it Jim common bloke...... there are a few here I reckon whom FLS their cases I feel TTL and annealing the necks are critical for the 303's I too like Mr E crimp with a medium crimp that way at least I knw the neck tensions are all the same.
-
-
Contributing Member
I use both Remington and PPU brass; however the last batch of Remingto brass that I purchasd does not seem as good as all the others. I have had some showing splits length-ways at the neck; as if the metal is too thin to start with. This is after only two or three loads.
I am gradually switching over to PPU; but the older Remington stuff was ok and I never had that type of split. I would be interested to know if anyone else has seen this type of failure with Remington brass?
-
-
Contributing Member
Very interesting thread, Gentlemen, thank you all.
I do reload .303B with the manual system from Lee, I guess it is called Classic Reloder.
It's the one where you have no press and only use the die and the hammer for decapping, resizing and bullet seating.
I use it also for the 7,62x54R and use a similar system for the 6,5x52 Carcano (an old system called VHS. Seems no longer to be available).
Honestly I don't keep statistics or notes about how many reloads I get with my cases, but I have a very strong impression that this system is pretty mild on the brass.
All of my brass has at least 6-7 "cycles" done and no issues at all.
Important is certainly that I use the brass always in the same rifle, so no need to full-size, other than when I want to switch to a different gun for any reason.
I always clean the primer pocket and trim the cases when needed, but nothing else. Brief cleaning with a cloth and lubricant when needed, a brush for the inside.
This way I'm currently having very satisfying results at the range and while reloading I never experienced any problems.
Best brass is, in my experience, Hornady. I'm now trying some S&B and Norma, as well as something else on the Russian.
Still doing pretty well, with no real difference to be noted in the first 3-4 reloads.
Does anybody here reload with similar systems?
Last but not least, I wish everybody here a fantastic 2017!
-
-
Legacy Member
I'll throw in. I full length resize PPU brass because I shoot several L.E. Rifles and want to be able to use the ammo in any gun. I do anneal the necks every reload which I concede is overkill. I have one No 1 Ishy that I do keep ammo separated for. It's a wire wrap with a good bore but the chamber at the neck is oversized. It really works the necks regardless of what I do and brass does not last long in that old girl. I'm using SMKs over 39 grains Varget with a light crimp. I am using Winchester primers in the L.E. Rifles because I can always find them. Reloading for me is as fun as shooting.
-
-
Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
Ovidio
Does anybody here reload with similar systems?
I started out using the hammer in hammer out size die. I was living in an apartment at the time and thought it expedient...I still show it as the first entry in my reloading book. 80 round I think. Then I went and set up with the RCBS Rockchucker and complete kit, way before they ever offered packaged kits. I can't remember what happened to the Lee Loadall...it takes one back to the time of the tong tool and sitting in a cabin. You find it easy on your brass...maybe it's your rifle's chamber that's tight? First chamber on a freshly sharpened reamer? Anyway, if you like that system, enjoy...
-