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Thread: 1907 Bayonet Grips - Repair or replace?

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  1. #21
    Contributing Member Flying10uk's Avatar
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    When looking at vintage cars at shows, cars where the owner has paid a fortune to have new leather seat coverings made always seem to stand out and look out of place, somehow. I'm sure that they will look fine in 50 years time but somehow the new leather looks out of place in a car that may be more than 70 years old.

    Thank-you to everyone for the responses and this is what I was hoping for when I started the thread, a debate on the pros and cons of repair or replacement.

    I hadn't really thought about replacing just one grip but it's a valid point worth remembering, thanks.

    Peter, what exactly do you mean by "bone the wood", please?

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  3. #22
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    Peter Laidler's Avatar
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    Bone the wood is to ply the wood butt, fore-end or in this case, the grips with linseed and using another harder piece of wood - we always used a second chamber stick called the boning stick - rub the hardwood up and down, over the wood. It smooths the wood and closes up the open grain. But you have to be careful not to let the boning stick round off any edges etc etc. Or in the case of new bayonet grips, not to let it distort the grip screw holes. Gives the wood a distinct smooth sheen. Coarse cloth and wax furniture polish does the same. The latter was told to me by a furniture restorer who uses it when restoring.......... er......., old furniture!

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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    This is doing it literally but I see Peters way of being easier to accomplish otherwise there may be a spate of dead animals missing bones..........
    https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...44224172,d.dGc

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  8. #24
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I've done it with a dissimilar hardwood before too.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member tankhunter's Avatar
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    I always used a 1/2 Lb Hammer Wooden shaft. Or as Peter & I would refer to them as, Hammer, Armourers, Ball Pain!.....

    Due to some of the contours on the handle, it made it easier to use. In curved & shaped areas on The Weapon Furniture.

    Also, being thicker, You could use more downwards pressure if needed.

    The Wooden Chamber stick as Peter also states. Was useful for getting in smaller areas, & had the benefit of being easier to control. In tight areas.

    I always finished off with fine wire wool overall. Which gave a sateen smooth finish. & then Boiled linseed oilicon to complete the task! (NEVER use Linseed that has NOT been boiled first!!!)

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  11. #26
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhunter View Post
    I always used a 1/2 Lb Hammer Wooden shaft.
    There we go, I only knew it seemed to work.
    Regards, Jim

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