Frosted barrel

[SMG6702]

Hi all just picked up a Turkish short rifle took a chance on it since it had a dark bore after cleaning it I noticed a good amount of frosting in the grooves the rifling though is pretty strong the bullet test was very good at least 3/8 of an inch of bullet sticks out of barrel not expecting any great accuracy but hoping it will shoot ok anyone with some experience with this that might give me some advice thanks in advance

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[Aragorn243]

Only way to tell is to shoot it. There are guys here that have gotten good accuracy out of sewer pipe bores.

[browningautorifle]

Also it may clean up more after some shooting...

[Patrick Chadwick]

... it had a dark bore after cleaning it I noticed a good amount of frosting in the grooves the rifling though is pretty strong the bullet test was very good at least 3/8 of an inch of bullet sticks out of barrel ...

Bullet test and visivle strong rifling make me think this might be a simple case of shoot/clean/shoot/clean. I have managed to get several "sewer pipes" back into useful service. Basically, one is trying to make up for decades of insufficient maintenance.

1) Clean (you did that).
2) Shoot.
3) Repeat 1) and 2)
- Still dirty-looking?
4) Clean with ammoniak-based bore cleaning solvent to remove lead/copper. Take care that solvent does not run over bluing or woodwork.
5) Repeat 1) and 2)
- Still dirty looking?
6) Use Neco fire-lapping technique (is the stuff still available?).
The Neco fire-lapping paste is supposed to be 1200 grit carborundum. It will take the sharp edges off any scratches or pits that may be causing bore-leading.

The above will work in most cases!

[SMG6702]

Went to range today and it shot very good I'm happy with the results and the bore looks new after 20 rounds couldn't believe how much better it looks. going to clean again and shoot again thanks again for the help

[browningautorifle]

Surprising how much carbon comes out with firing.

[CINDERS]

What I do ~ I find its best to get into the carbon whilst the barrel is still warm not hot straight after a string but still warm to the touch I push a couple of under size dry patches through first to get rid of the loose stuff then get a size patch wet with Bore tech push that through, followed by another dry one straight away, another wet one this time I usually use a plastic pipette to put a little extra in the bore then with the wet patch give it a good scrub being careful not to go all the way through the muzzle . I then park the patch and rod with @1/8th " poking through the muzzle and let her sit for 15 minutes whilst doing other stuff.
Come back to it push the patch out dry patch until no carbon if your still getting carbon wet bore with Bore tech use a stiff nylon brush wetted with bore tech 1/4 of the brush dabbed with Iosso paste and scrub bore being careful not to take the nylon brush all the way through the muzzle carefully push @1/4 of the brush through then carefully back give the chamber end a good scrub as well when after @20 strokes remove the brush by pushing all the way through patch out & oil bore, you may find you need to use a chamber rod with some 4x2 cloth wrapped around it to get to the residual Iosso left at the end of the bore guide (Which you should always use). Also I use aircraft grade aluminium jags as brass ones can give you a false indication you are still getting copper from the bore. Anyway that's what I do with my 6.5 x 284 as RE 22 is a pretty dirty powder plus the round is right on over-bore with plenty of coal behind a small dia projectile.

Warning ~ if you are using SWEET's bore solvent in a stainless steel barrel the max time you should leave it in the barrel is 10 minutes as it can cause issues with fire cracking this is what other experienced Eff class shooters have told me and for the price of a new barrel at $1000.oo fitted its worth heeding advice