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Thread: 1917 SSA No1 Mk3* with Australian service marking resto (Pic heavy thread)

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  1. #1
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    1917 SSA No1 Mk3* with Australian service marking resto (Pic heavy thread)

    I found this a few weeks ago, posted in this thread here and how lucky i got with it as i did not really take the time to examine it properly. Anyway, this is what it looked like when i received it

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    The varnish had filled in and partially obliterated some markings in the timber. It also made it hard to see the condition of the woodwork. markings on the buttstock had been sanded and were only visible in exact lighting conditions
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    Last edited by BushyFromOz; 02-12-2017 at 12:41 AM.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Woodwork was cleaned with PolyStrippa paint and varnish remover. I tested it on the underside of the front handguard to see that it would not stain the timber before getting into removing the varnish.

    I applied a thick coating of the stripper with a paintbrush and let it sit for around 10 minutes. Once the varnish began to bubble i then scrubbed it with a stiff nylon brush to agitate the varnish then applied another light coat of stripping agent. It would then bubble up within a few minutes.

    I then lightly removed the majority of the gunk with a plastic scraper. Once the bulk of the gunk was off i then neutralised the stripper with 00 steel wool and Methylated spirits, dried it with a clean rag then scrubbed with 0000 steel wool and acetone. The end was a varnish free, gunge free wood that still had the patina i was after. It lifted out stampings in the timber so they could be clearly seen.






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    Next the timber was re-oiled. I used Tung oil for this. I used Tung oil for the sole reason that it is less likely to darken with age. Having re-found some markings in the timber that were covered, and especially the buttstock markings that are less visible due to being partially sanded by a previous owner, i felt Tung oil would get me the finish i needed and help in preserving the cartouche marks. And it took a LOT of oil. Having used Methylated spirits and acetone would have stripped any oil from the timber, but the timber was tinder dry under the handguards, leading me to think it was varnished a very long time ago and has not seen any oil since.

    The oil was applied thickly with a paint brush and allowed to dry. After multiple coats and the timber not absorbing any more i took to rubbing small amounts in with a tack rage every half an hour or so until it had a dull sheen. I then reassembled the rifle, attached the reproduction Pat14 leather sling. I then cleaned up the 1917 dated Wilkinson Sword Pat 1907 bayonet i scored of ebay a few weeks ago to match with the rifle with 0000 steel wool and Methylated spirits. Afterwards i re-oiled the timber and metalwork and applied a liberal coat of Dubbin natural shoe polish to the leather on the scabbard and and frog

    This is the end result, and im pretty darn happy with it










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    I'd make a piling swivel out of one of those two lopsided ones and then you have them both. There shouldn't be one in front of the mag. The rifle looks great now...
    Regards, Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    I'd make a piling swivel out of one of those two lopsided ones and then you have them both. There shouldn't be one in front of the mag. The rifle looks great now...
    Its actually not on there anymore. I had it on there with the screw finger tightened so I didn't lose it. I have a piling swivel on the way for it, as well as a couple of new screws and a safety catch spring

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    I should have figured you had it in hand...
    Regards, Jim

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    that came up nicely.

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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    I should have figured you had it in hand...
    I had not thought of making a piling swivel out of one though. Ill stick that in the memory bank for sure
    Last edited by BushyFromOz; 02-13-2017 at 04:13 PM.

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    Proper piling swivels are noticeably thicker than sling swivels, I was very disappointed when I received a cut 'OA' marked sling swivel at piling swivel prices from Liberty Tree Collectors. P14 and M17 piling swivels are wider than SMLE swivels and wont fit in a SMLE nosecap, ive got some of those too!

    Rifle looks grand BTW
    Keep Calm
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    Fix Bayonets

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  16. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy View Post
    P14 and M17 piling swivels are wider than SMLE swivels and wont fit in a SMLE nosecap
    How does that apply here?
    Regards, Jim

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