Trigger pull. No4 MK1*

[Ovidio]

Here's another thing before you do that again.......... NEVER remove the fore-end by pulling it down and off from the muzzle end. Never, ever.......... ALWAYS remove the fore-end by tapping the two top rear edges downwards to loosen the tapered lock between the drawers and butt socket.

Dear Peter, I'm at a loss right now.
What does that exactly mean?
I wanted to "strip" my No. 4 but now you froze me a bit.
I must understand what that means before I get moving......
I'll look at the rifle rereading this later tonight. Maybe I'll get it then.

[Badger]

Dear Peter, I'm at a loss right now.
What does that exactly mean?
I wanted to "strip" my No. 4 but now you froze me a bit.
I must understand what that means before I get moving......
I'll look at the rifle rereading this later tonight. Maybe I'll get it then.

Perhaps download a complete set of manuals for the Lee Enfield from the MKL, which includes operating and armourer's maintenance instructions.

The manuals may be found in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)


2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)

Complete Set includes:

- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Data Summary
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Parts Identification List
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Equipment Description
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions


1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)

Complete Set includes:

- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions

Note: The difference between the 1991 set of No.4 Manuals and 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals, is that the 1991 manual contains armourer's information on how to properly "bed" the No.4 rifle, whereas the newer 2002 manual does not.

Hope this helps...

Regards,
Doug

[Ovidio]

Thank you very, very much!

[Chubbs]

Hi Guys

Having reassembled the rifle with 2 different fore ends including the original. The trigger reverts back to 1 long smooth pull. If I take the fore ends off and reassemble the trigger minus wood , the trigger goes back to 2 stage. Does the wood work where the trigger fits need to be trimmed, I also note that the spacer has been ground shorter. Even with the longer spacer fitted the trigger is still one long smooth pull. the front screw has 2 marks on the trigger guard and these line up with screw slot for each of the lengths when tight.
Attachment 82149Attachment 82148

Regards Chubbs

Having further checked what is going on i have found that the angle at the front of the trigger guard seems to make all the difference. If the gap between the guard and the receiver is greater than 20.2mm's then the trigger only has one long smooth pull. Anything under and its a 2 stage pull.
Attachment 82150

The measurement thickness on the stocks is

Original 21.12mm
New 21.69mm

So how would you thin that space or does it require new trigger parts. I am at a loss.
Thin trigger guard is not bent.

Regards Chubbs

[browningautorifle]

So how would you thin that space or does it require new trigger parts

I have one here that had this problem and I used a wood chisel to slowly remove thin amounts until the trigger guard went into place correctly. I took it off the bottom not the inside. I put the wood on, turned it upside down and slowly removed, testing every couple of passes until the two stage returned. You may have to take some off the full length of the sides too. Both sides of the mag opening. That whole assembly has to lie flat.

[Peter Laidler]

Chaps......... Could some kind soul please resurrect the article I wrote about fitting a fore-end correctly for Chubbs. It took us months during a loooooong apprenticeship of endless fitting, patching, trying again and STILL getting it wrong many many times before some of us (excluding me) mastered it. Chubbs, with the best will in the world, this is an art and practising on a new fore-end is fraught with costly dangers. You really need to know the technicalities first.

[Chubbs]

Peter thank you for your input. I think I found your article and it helped me with the draws. I appreciate that it took many months of practice to get it right. I would imagine if you took a couple of hours just get the draws right then the instructor would have been less than pleased. I however have the time.
I appreciate I am new to the forums and it must be a bit tedious if I am asking questions that have already been answered elsewhere. For that I apologise.

In regards to the trigger I would just like the last bit of advice in regards to the wood being to thick to allow the stage operation. Is it as Jim states and the wood needs to be trimmed on the trigger guard side. This as I said is the same with the original woodwork.

Regards Chubbs

[browningautorifle]

this is an art

I knew I'd draw fire on this one but I had to tell him what I did to sort mine. So be it...

the wood being to thick to allow the stage operation

That was what was wrong with mine in any case...

[Peter Laidler]

Adjusting the trigger pressure is absolutely nothing to do with fitting a fore-end or the thickness of the wood under the collar. Fit the fore-end properly FIRST, adjust the collar to suit and THEN set up the trigger pull-offs and THEN adjust the pressures

It has been said that to adjust the double pull off you bend the trigger guard to suit. With respect to those who advocate this method of pure white mans magic and witchcraft, pray tell me, just how?

[Otbed]

A quick thank you to Peter for the information re trigger issues. My No4 Mk1 suddenly developed a single pull from its normal two stage. Baffled (having changed parts to no avail) I searched the forum and realised from the articles I hadn't considered the trigger - the pivot pin was well worn. I had an unissued new old stock complete Mk1 trigger guard so fitted it and....back to a perfect two stage trigger.
Thank you!