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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Perhaps frozen in place? The original rings and mount would shed light here...I'll bet. The only thing like that nonadjustable would be tank sights and field piece sights...
    That is very possible! Its tight. I bought it very cheap


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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesPaui+sg=win View Post
    That is very possible! Its tight. I bought it very cheap
    Attachment 82238
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    Attachment 82240
    Attachment 82241


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    I am thinking if you look up Peters little block system he made for centering the reticule on a No.32 scope you may get an idea as to where it is in the elevation plane. You rotate the scope in these V blocks whilst looking through it at the reticule as it spins around the central axis line of the scope.

    My thinking is if the elevation is wound right up the tip will appear below center if the elevation post is on its lowest setting then the tip will appear above the central axis in the scope it may work so as just to give you a idea which way to turn the elevation drum without tightening it even further, if this is a totally stupid idea I am sure to be told but I just figured what the heck try anything.........Good luck.

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    Here's what you need to do now........... Unscrew those two little screws on top of the turret adjuster/thumbscrew. Remove that plate and below that you should/might have another screw that is holding the thumbscrew adjuster to a squared off lead screw. Unscrew and remove this larger screw and lift off the thumbscrew. Now try CAREFULLY rotating the squared off leadscrew.

    THE FACT REMAINS THAT WHATEVER YOU DO, YOU MUST RELEASE THIS LEAD SCREW! But at least now that the turret is partially stripped, you have eliminated those parts as being the problem.

    Will the lead screw turn now.................? Because if not, Cinders had partially mentioned what you do next.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CINDERS View Post
    if the elevation is wound right up the tip will appear below center
    If the whole retical moves up and down so the index pointer remains in place then you won't see that happen. All three markers will move together...the only thing holding that top knob should be the lock screw behind it. If Peter's idea doesn't work, your scope may be hooped...
    Regards, Jim

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    ---------- Post added at 08:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 PM ----------

    So if the screw under the elevation turret cap can be freed up, then I should be able to adjust elevation? If the scope is wrecked, I wont be too disappointed. I will one day send it off for repair. Do you guys know of any other options for a scope with a Germanicon #1 reticle? Something hopefully not crazy expensive lol. I attempted to scope it with an ATI Mauser 98 clamp on mount... thought it would do well enough for the woods... nope. Not enough loktite could keep it solid lol. Live and learn boys. I had to buy a broken handguard off of ebay to saw down in order to get the mount to fit and save the original. Live and learn!!

    ---------- Post added at 08:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 PM ----------



  12. #17
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    Nice looking group there, the scope may be gleaned from Ebay...maybe you can find something close to the original spec?
    Regards, Jim

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    Once you turn the squared off lead screw the graticle/reticle WILL move in the optical field of view that you see. It is a mechanical mechanism. There is absolutely no need for your telescope to be wrecked. That is defeatist talk! Just rock the lead screw left and right and it WILL unscrew. Then you're home and dry.

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    Guys, thank you. I just got the chance to mess with it and it works like a charm! The mechanism is smooth as butter. Im very happy with it now. Now, if I could just get that datgon rear mount off. It looks like the rear eye piece needs to be taken off. Not something I feel right doing... the mounts I have will let the rear mount clear if I leave it on, but I have a small bit of OCD and I dont know if I could deal with that. Bought some ring reducers from brownells and they are not thick enough... so Ill need to find out what my tube diameter is. My rings are 1" Zrak rings.


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