No4 Mk 2 bedding

[ricohman]

I recently purchased an extremely nice example of an Irish contract PF series Enfield. When comparing it to my UF series rifle and my others I noticed the barrel does not have any pressure holding it to the forend at the muzzle.
I disassembled the rifle and I can see that I am most likely the 1st person to take it apart since it was built. It looks absolutely new although the seller said he fired a few rounds through it when he unwrapped it in the 90's.
When I remove the bushing it makes no difference. The bedding is tight otherwise and I can see the impression the barrel made in the forend by the muzzle.
My thinking is the wood. It seems rather dry. Is it possible for the wood to shrink or warp?
I am not planing on shooting this rifle but I do like having my rifles as good as they can be.

Information

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[mr.e moose]

The wood has probably dried out over the years. Give it a few good applications of some raw linseed oil.

[ricohman]

The wood has probably dried out over the years. Give it a few good applications of some raw linseed oil.

I have read that a 50/50 mix of turpentine and raw linseed oil should be applied.
Just on the dry inside or the entire forend?

[Baal]

Turpentine just acts as a thinner. I'd use raw linseed oil and let the wood soak in a tub of it for a day.

[mrclark303]

I have read that a 50/50 mix of turpentine and raw linseed oilicon should be applied.
Just on the dry inside or the entire forend?

As said, the point of the 50% mix is to ensure the oil penetrates deeply, the solvent/turps or whatever is added to the linseed, just acts as a rapid catalyst. Its more for finishing the wood than anything else.

In your case, I would remove the forend and feed it with undiluted raw linseed over a 24 to 48 hour period, inside and out, (top woods and butt too to ensure an even colour) then wipe off the excess and see how it fits.

This process can have miraculous effects in bringing dry shrunk rifle woodwork back to life.

[ricohman]

As said, the point of the 50% mix is to ensure the oil penetrates deeply, the solvent/turps or whatever is added to the linseed, just acts as a rapid catalyst. Its more for finishing the wood than anything else.

In your case, I would remove the forend and feed it with undiluted raw linseed over a 24 to 48 hour period, inside and out, (top woods and butt too to ensure an even colour) then wipe off the excess and see how it fits.

This process can have miraculous effects in bringing dry shrunk rifle woodwork back to life.

Thanks for the tips. This is what I am going to do. Then I will recheck the pressure at the muzzle.

[browningautorifle]

Even in the factory the wood was soaked in warm oil overnight I think. It'll only take so much and then it was allowed to drip dry. Maybe you could show us this one after?

[Ridolpho]

ricohman: I soak mine in a length of PVC pipe with an end cap cemented on. I often leave them soak for several hours and on a sunny day the black pipe heats up the oil if you stand it outside. If the bedding doesn't return to normal you could always lightly glue in a walnut veneer shim near the forend tip to get proper pressure there as an alternative to removing wood elsewhere.

Ridolpho

[Peter Laidler]

Good idea from Ridolpho. There were instances when the fore-ends were a bit low at the muzzle from new. But before you embark on what I'm going to tell you, make sure that it's not so low that the top handguard touches the barrel. If it does, .......

If all is well otherwise simply mill/cut a slot out of the front centre of the fore-end, approx 5/8" or so wide and back 1.5 to 2" or so. Now glue in a piece of suitable hardwood. All you have to do is to channel out the new insert until the barrel fits evenly along AND radially in the centre of the new channel AND has the required amount of lift Quite a common repair at our workshops

[mr.e moose]

Here on the prairies it can get quite dry in the winter and humid in the summer. The best defense is a application of linseed oil annually. If the original owner unwrapped it and cleaned with solvents to remove all the oils it is probably drier than a popcorn fart. Not only does linseed oil nourish the wood but it helps to prevent warping.
If you still do not have around 6 # of up pressure my preferred method is to apply thin shims of cork at the tip of the barrel channel, it is a easily reversed fix. The issue might be that you have a warped stock
Once you have it apart as you reassemble it with the trigger guard reinstalled, check to see how the barrel sits in the fore stock. Take a piece of paper and loop it under the barrel and move it from the knox form towards the muzzle. If it binds left or right of the barrel the stock has warped to the side, if it binds on the bottom of the barrel before you get close to the end of the fore stock the wood has bellied down. Warped stocks are a PITA to fix but they can be fixed with some careful steaming and some clamps and a jig. You have to go a little bit further as the wood tends to spring back a bit.