Really Stubborn Spring Tube Receiver

[painter777]

Have a replacement Blue Sky barrel I need to pull.
I've had a QHMC receiver soaking in liquid wrench for nearly a week that I tried wrenching off today with no luck. I stuck the barrel upside down between 2 hardwood blanks in the vise and to save wear and tear on my back, gently used a bottle jack to break it loose. No real progress, getting just a hair past the barrel/receiver index marks. Also tried to tighten back enough to pull the index lines back together. Tried this multiple times but just couldn't get it to free up. All said I'm getting ~1/16" movement either way.

Bought years ago from Nick, I'm using this same receiver wrench and have this same barrel block (but haven't ever tried the barrel block) just never felt comfortable with these barrel blocks, worried I guess that they just don't carry or spread the load well enough, worried about bending the barrel or cracking a spring tube receiver. Since the vise can hold about 4" tight compared to maybe 1" with the block.

M1 CARBINE ACTION WRENCH AND BARREL BLOCK SET SOLID STEEL | eBay

Question:
Can someone post a picture or describe where your positioning this style barrel block (if you use this type) ?

Should I try some heat?

Just be patient and keep soaking for a while longer?

Never, Never have I had a receiver/barrel this tough to pull.......

Any tips greatly appreciated,
Charlie-Painter777

Information

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[browningautorifle]

I've never had that much trouble either. I just used protected vise jaws directly on the flats of the barrel and the wrench goes on the action...I don't think heat should be applied. That could change the receiver...? How about a short extension on the handle?

Mind you, my vise was purchased to pull Thompson barrels so it's big. Maybe just more soaking time. If it moved at all then it wants to come off.

[painter777]

If it moved at all then it wants to come off

Thanks Jim,

I need that encouragement.
This is a big vise @ nearly 100lbs..
I had enough torque on it yesterday to have pulled apart the last 2-3 I did combined.
I reefed on it by hand one time, when I should have known better.
Got up this morning with a big time sore back.
I try to use a bottle jack, after having multiple back surgeries over the years I can't be horsing on things like this.
After posting last night I went back out, stood the barrel upright with muzzle down and stuck a rubber plug in the chamber.
I soaked the skirt and smooth chamber face with hoppes #9, enough to have a pool of it. In hopes of it seeping down the barrel threads.
I have been repeating this as I see the #9 weeping out under the receiver ring.
So it is leaking down the threads. I'm gonna give the #9 and gravity time to work. At least that's my excuse to the wife, so I can really milk some more time until my back lets up.

Again Appreciate Your Time,
Charlie-Painter777

[browningautorifle]

Mind the back, I know how that is. Wish I was a bit closer so I could put a snipe on the handle and give you that "Look" before pulling the handle. Then she cracks and lets go...like a Thompson barrel...

No fear...no fear...

[USGI]

Charlie, I have that same wrench and barrel block from Nick. Would rather have had the one from Chestnut Ridge, but decided to "cheap out" instead. I've only used mine once, and took some advice from a guy at the gun show who sells a lot of used gun parts. He recommends putting the barrel with the block in a 20 Ton Harbor Freight press - and having the press bolted to the floor. I already had the press (however, not bolted down), so that's the route I went. I shimmed both tools with a bit of gasket material, card stock, or something similar to protect the gun parts a bit. I worried about where on the receiver to attach the wrench, so picked what I thought was the strongest and least likely place to cause damage. I've only done the one job, and boy was it ever tight. The first thing I noticed about the wrench was how short the handle was compared to those pictured in the TM's. I remember breaking a couple of darned heavy vises in my time while doing automotive and refrigeration work, so thought the press might be a better way of doing the holding.

If that last round of soaking doesn't do the job for you, try slipping a piece of pipe on for a cheater - but we all know how fragile that receiver looks, especially when it's a spring tube. Good luck with it! - Bob

[DaveHH]

Seems to me that enough heat to make things expand is not enough to change the temper of the parts. Application of modest amounts of torch heat, just to get it hot but not red or anywhere near red, and it sure helps stubborn parts. It isn't a small part like an FP, it's a sizable check of quality steel.
D

[browningautorifle]

Gun parts are subjected to heat through use too and they do recover.

[Doco overboard]

I have managed to get a few things apart by using a little heat and then getting ice cubes on the stationary part. Some guys use dry ice or refrigerant.

[tenOC]

Might try trans fluid instead of what you're using too.

[painter777]

I really do appreciate all the advice guys!
I've been cycling #9 Hoppes over the rubber plugged chamber off and on all day. Remember I have the barrel stood vertical with muzzle down, so when filling it pools all over the face of the chamber. By keeping the barrel wiped dry just below the receiver ring I can see that the #9 is weeping thru at a pretty quick rate. I believe this will do the trick when my back tells me it's ok to try again. When talking HEAT, I was just thinking, if needed to heat that area to help 'Draw' the #9 thru, but will now be surprised if it will be needed. My vise weighs it at nearly ~100 lbs. bolted to my bench that has 3 snap on tool toppers under it. When using a bottle jack I can crank the receiver wrench up until I feel that 'Resistance' then normally take a break while it sits under a load. Last week when pulling that WRA springtube receiver it was idling at about this same tension, when I heard a creak from across the shop, came back to it, seen that the index lines had moved, then let the jack down and easily twisted it off.

I've been using hardwood and rosin paper against the vise jaws but it allows the barrel to twist a bit. I'm always worried about over torquing I need to look in to a set of good no mar vise jaws to protect and grip.

What are you guys using?
Ever try these??

BESSEY Non-Marring Vise Jaw Accessory for Use on Vises with Jaws from 3 in. to 6 in. Wide-BV-NVJ - The Home Depot

It'll be up to my back as to how quickly I can keep you posted. Until then I'll just keep the penetrating #9 flowing.

Thanks Again All........... I really do appreciate your help......

Regards
Charlie