New collector, need advice please

[ccjcc81]

Hi guys. I'm a modern firearms enthusiast, and just acquired my first military collectible rifle, a 1903, which is a very different firearm to what I'm used to. I've got a lot of questions about it, so while I pour through this site finding info, I thought I'd make a post and get some advice from you guys. Here are my questions:

How do I remove the stock sights and attach flip-up backup sights? How do I attach a red dot? Where can I get an aftermarket collapsible AR15 style stock for it?

HAHAHA! Just kidding!

Seriously, I have questions. Let me tell you how I got it and what condition it's in. My uncle gave it to me as an inheritance. It looks to be in fantastic condition, except for the bore. It's a Springfield, and a high-serial number rifle, but barely. SN 985###. It has what I'm assuming is the original barrel on it. The barrel is marked 11-18 The finish on the entire rifle looks original, as it has the green hue in direct light. If this is the case, I'd say it's in phenomenal shape, given it's age. I hope I look half as good when I'm half its age.

Unfortunately, the person who owned it before my Uncle didn't like the black, oil-swollen stock, and took the sandpaper to it. He sanded in areas that shouldn't have been sanded, like the joints. Because of that, the top handguard wobbles a little, and the barrel band wiggles a little. Some of the metal parts are also proud of the wood, and I was told that they really shouldn't be. He also nearly sanded the proof-stamps out of it. They're barely visible. Don't get me wrong, the guy made it pretty as heck with a nice finish, and it's probably the lightest weighing 1903 in existence but I really don't like the top handguard wobble. It doesn't rattle when shaken, or anything like that, but I can move it with my hand. My Uncle assures me that it isn't an issue, but it bothers me a little.

The bore is in bad shape. The barrel probably needs to be replaced. I bought a cheap endoscope from Amazon, and looked through it. In most places the lands of the rifling look nice and smooth, but the grooves have a light lemon peel texture. It's not nearly as bad as some of the M1 Garands I've seen, which had barrels that looked like sea sponges, but it's obviously not ideal. There is one area with significant pitting, but the pitting is in small patches, I'd say no wider than very small bird shot or target shot, maybe smaller.

My Uncle says that it's still a sub-MOA rifle. I haven't shot it yet, but I take his word for it, he's a shooter. I asked him if this rifle should be babied, or if this is a shooter, and he said shoot it. Pending the advice I get from you guys, that's what I plan to do; shoot it. I asked him if I should have the barrel replaced, and he said no, as that would affect it's value as a collector's item. That was a contradicting idea, as he had just told me to shoot the rifle, don't make it a safe queen. I asked him if I should replace the stock, and he didn't think that was a good idea for the same reason.

So, here are some questions, if you've got the time.

Should I replace the barrel? What effect, aside from accuracy loss, will the pitting that I described earlier have?

Should I replace the stock? I'd keep the original, of course, but I'd like it to have a stock on it that is closer to what they would be like if it weren't over-sanded. Should I do that?

If so, I'd like to find the exact same stock, the straight handle with the finger grooves. I'd also like to find the exact top handguard. But, I don't want to spend too much. I certainly can't afford the prices I'm seeing on Gunbroker. I found Sarco, and I see that they have some stuff, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. Can you guys direct me to any other sources? If I can't find a straight handle stock, would the "C" style stock fit it?

Also, what do you think this rifle is worth? I know nobody would give a definite value on a rifle without inspecting it in person, but based on my description and the pictures, what do you think I've got here?

And lastly, he gave me some ammo for it. He gave me some modern hunting ammo, and some Korean M2 ball with P S stamps, non corrosive. I was trying out the stripper clips, as I've only ever tried stripper clips with 5.56 stanag mags, never with a rifle. It would appear that the Korean M2 doesn't fit quite right in the chamber. The bullet is hitting the rifling of the bore, which makes closing the bolt more difficult than with the hunting ammo. It closes most of the way fine, but on the last step of closing the bolt; moving the bolt hand from up to down, it's harder. It's also harder to open the bolt at that step. I looked at the cartridges I tried, and there is no bullet set-back, but there are scuff marks where the rifling is scraping the bullet. So, the bullet is right into the rifling when chambered. Is this dangerous? I assume that since there is no discernible bullet setback, this wouldn't be a problem, but I'd like to hear what you think.

Here are some pictures. Thanks for your time, guys.

Information

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[Rick the Librarian]

I wouldn't complain about the stock ...indeed the whole rifle - it is still a very nice-looking rifle. The grasping grooves are very crisp. If you don't want the stock, can you send it my way?? (Joking!). As the barrel is correct/original, give it a try shooting first.

There are a few replacement parts, like the rear sight and the rifle may have been refinished at some time, it is a VERY presentable rifle, and, if it were me, I wouldn't change a thing. You might have the headspace checked, although there have been some reports of the foreign surplus ammo not "fitting" right.

There is "shooting" it and SHOOTING it ... if your definition of that is an occasional box of ammo at the range, I see nothing wrong, given the condition of the barrel. If you mean tromping through the brush or shooting 200 rounds a week, I wouldn't.

You have a very nice rifle - I wouldn't change a thing.

Excellent pictures, by the way.

[browningautorifle]

Welcome to the forum.

Well, as Rick described to you, there have been worse rifles pictured here touted as unissued and mint, unaltered... You'rs is very nice. The wobbling handguard can be shimmed at the end to stop movement and definitely shoot it before anything else happens. Perhaps it could use a good scrubbing, I had a Remington sporter that had a black cruddy bore that came out spotless like new chrome. I'd change the Uncle Mikes sling for a military grade though, post war steel frog with no dates would be perfect and affordable. Don't worry about an AR 15 type stock for it, just buck 'er off in a band saw and make an underfolder. You can probably use coat hangers for the material...

[ccjcc81]

Excellent advice. Where exactly and what exactly with would you shim the top handguard? What would you use to clean the bore?

After looking at pictures, I suspect that the bolt is not the original. I also wonder about the finish. It looks green in direct sunlight, but I find it hard to believe that the finish held up that well for that long. What could the rifle have been refinished with that would leave it looking like the original green parkerization? Surely it wasn't re-parkerized?

[BEAR]

According to John Beard, when Springfield started parkerizing their 03s the color was initially a flat black and then over time turned a dark olive if viewed in sunlight. My Mk1 has that appearance but for the life of me I can't capture the color on film.
Your rifle is really, really nice. As Rick said, if you want to get rid of your stock...send it to me ( he was just kidding...I'm not)
I find your hand guard fascinating, I have never seen a "V" notch on the wood before.

BEAR (BDY)

[Rick the Librarian]

The original finish wasn't a green parkerization. Your rifle was on the "cusp" between being blued and being parkerized a black color (with a VERY slight olive tinge.). Thus my statement that your rifle was likely refinished at some point.

What marking is on the top of the bolt handle?

I just noticed what Bear said about the handguard ...possibly one of those early non-sight groove handguards that was modified by a previous owner/shooter?

[browningautorifle]

Where exactly and what exactly with would you shim the top handguard? What would you use to clean the bore?

It depends on what the movement is, I had a piece of rubber tube in a handguard in an M1 rifle once. Small and just enough to stop movement. Hide it inside the metal at the end. Use good, new brushes and oil and it will come clean if it's going to. Shoot it a bit first and clean after to loosen anything up.

[oldcorps]

The sanding doesn't help but I've seen far worse. Staining the wood the original purplish brown color followed by a couple of coats of raw linseed oil rubbed-in would improve the rifle's appearance considerably. The handguard is from ca.1905, or a much earlier rifle, that has been notched for the later sight which is a pity, because original handguards from that period are scarce. Correct handguards with the circular windage knob cut are easy to find and inexpensive. How is the bolt marked and what are the measurements of the gas relief ports on the bottom? The original butt plate was smooth but the fine-checkered one on it is much harder to find so I'd leave it as is. All things considered, it's a very nice rifle and certainly worth a little effort.

[Rick the Librarian]

I would leave it as/is - "notched" handguard and all.

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

You may be responsible for a few blood pressure spikes with the intro.
Nice rifle & photos as well.
Now is that not nicer than any AR-15?