Just grabbed my first M1 Carbine and I have a couple questions :)

[SemperFi752]

Hey all, I've been looking for an M1 Carbine twice a day for almost a year now, and my search finally came to a close. I have a lot of detail below, but I'm kind of confused with the fact that it's a S'G' (Grand Rapids?) but in the 357 serial range. I have attached a bunch of pictures that I took after I ripped it apart when I got home and it actually looks like it has a ton of S'G' parts, which I was not expecting. I'm still kind of ignorant on carbines so I'm hoping to get some help on some questions. Thanks in advance!!!

1) Does anyone have an answer for the serial/S'G' discrepancy?
2) Does anyone have recommendations on who can repair the guide lug on my slide? I think it's too worn as it popped out on me after I put it back together. I have an image in the link below if you'd like to see the lug.
3) Is S'G' technically more rare than a Rock-Ola? I was really trying to hunt down a Standard Product being from Northern Ohio, but this one just spoke to me...
4) What does the V on the left side of my receiver mean?
5) Does the IU magazine that looks brand new and is blued sound right?

PICS: https://www.flickr.com/photos/184759.../shares/v7888E

Barreled Action

Receiver SAGINAW S’G’ 3575590, this is kind of odd according to the serial ranges it should be S.G.??

Barrel UNDERWOOD 10-43 with flaming bomb, almost perfect rifling, no muzzle wear, long skirt

Front Sight N marked, supposedly Niedner Rifle Corp. of Dowagiac, MI?

Rear Sight PI/PI marked, milled. Perhaps Underwood?

Barrel Band Type 3, AMCO marked

Trigger Group

Trigger Housing S’G’ marked Type 3 made in Grand Rapids on IP machinery due to partial holes?

Hammer Type 3 M1E1 Hammer S G marked

Hammer Spring Type 2 (26.6 coils)

Trigger S’G’ marked Type 2

Trigger Spring Type 2

Sear SW-S’G’ marked with modification without grind mark

Sear Spring Type 2

Safety Type 4 Rotary, CM marked

Magazine Catch Type 3, M marked and HI marked

Bolt Group

Bolt Punch marked and S’G’ on right lug outer portion, curved flat right bolt lug

Firing Pin Type 1 S’G’ marked

Extractor Type 3 W S’G’ marked

Plunger Type 2

Ejector 3 bevel early

Stock Group

Slide Type 3, S’G’ marked

Early slide stop

Stock Type 3, RSG marked in sling port, ordnance shield and SG in a square on right side of butt, P mark on pistol grip

Handguard Deep Sighting Groove 2 rivet with RSG mark

Recoil Plate W S’G’ marked, Type 3

Recoil Plate Screw Type 2

Butt Plate missing dot a 5 o’clock, supposedly Saginaw

Magazine IU marked, Underwood? It’s blued and was FULL of grease, looks unused.

Front Band

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[cali201]

You don't repair a slide you replace it. Slide, Type III, G.I. (Saginaw S'G' - Marked S'G') | Gun Parts Corp.


A little history of Saginaw (S'G') and its carbines. : Saginaw (S'G')

[SemperFi752]

Thanks for that link cali! For that cash, 100% agree I will be replacing it... I thought I was looking at much more for a replacement. Did you happen to see my pic? Does that look worn based on your experience?

You don't repair a slide you replace it. Slide, Type III, G.I. (Saginaw S'G' - Marked S'G') | Gun Parts Corp.


A little history of Saginaw (S'G') and its carbines. : Saginaw (S'G')

[AFJon]

When you say the slide popped out did it just fall out or were you pulling back on it? If you were pulling back on it to cycle the action did you have apply any outward pressure on the slide? There is definitely some wear on your slide and combined with some outward pressure (pulling away from the rifle) could get it to pop out.
Agree with cali that for the price it's worth it to pick up a spare.

[Bruce McAskill]

When S'G' finished off the old Irwin Pedersen contract serial numbers, they then took a chuck of serial numbers from S.G. to continue to make carbines. This ended by the end of December 1943 when S'G' then stopped making carbines.

Your carbine has been through a typical rebuild post war which updated it to the last improvements. The rear sight was changed and the adjustable rear sight was added. The PI on it means it was made for Inland. The type 3 barrel band was added then too and the one you have is a pate war/post war update with the bayonet lug. The rotary safety was changed as was the magazine release.

When your slide came off were you pulling back on it? If so were you also perhaps pulling upwards at the same time? If so this could account for it coming off the track as it's only should be pulled straight back.

[cali201]

does look a bit rounded in the picture. If you order a slide do not forget the slide lock and spring (the few slides I have purchased were all nos without these parts). Even if you order one and somehow keep your old one you can sell the new one and not lose any $$$ (heck you make make some).

Slide Lock, Type III | Gun Parts Corp.

Slide Lock Spring | Gun Parts Corp.

[SemperFi752]

When you say the slide popped out did it just fall out or were you pulling back on it? If you were pulling back on it to cycle the action did you have apply any outward pressure on the slide? There is definitely some wear on your slide and combined with some outward pressure (pulling away from the rifle) could get it to pop out.
Agree with cali that for the price it's worth it to pick up a spare.

When S'G' finished off the old Irwin Pedersen contract serial numbers, they then took a chuck of serial numbers from S.G. to continue to make carbines. This ended by the end of December 1943 when S'G' then stopped making carbines.

Your carbine has been through a typical rebuild post war which updated it to the last improvements. The rear sight was changed and the adjustable rear sight was added. The PI on it means it was made for Inland. The type 3 barrel band was added then too and the one you have is a pate war/post war update with the bayonet lug. The rotary safety was changed as was the magazine release.

When your slide came off were you pulling back on it? If so were you also perhaps pulling upwards at the same time? If so this could account for it coming off the track as it's only should be pulled straight back.

I was pulling back on it as I have not fired it yet. It takes minimal outward pressure to get the slide to kick out of the receiver. So much that I likely will not fire it until I get a replacement as I do not want to risk it coming out in firing and doing damage to my receiver.

does look a bit rounded in the picture. If you order a slide do not forget the slide lock and spring (the few slides I have purchased were all nos without these parts). Even if you order one and somehow keep your old one you can sell the new one and not lose any $$$ (heck you make make some).

Slide Lock, Type III | Gun Parts Corp.

Slide Lock Spring | Gun Parts Corp.

Good looking out cali, I appreciate that!!

She's a beautiful carbine overall in my opinion, and I'm definitely happy with my purchase. I'm kind of happy that I am coming to an end with my wartime collection as the spontaneous combustion in my wallet is starting to burn

[browningautorifle]

I likely will not fire it until I get a replacement as I do not want to risk it coming out in firing and doing damage to my receiver.

I bet it won't do that. They don't sit cockeyed when they run, it's outward pressure pulls them out of the track, whether you know it or not.

[SemperFi752]

I bet it won't do that. They don't sit cockeyed when they run, it's outward pressure pulls them out of the track, whether you know it or not.

The physics definitely support your statement. It came with 10 rounds, so I'll fire and inspect after each round and see what's up. Thanks Jim!

[browningautorifle]

Worth a try. Unless it's been physically hammered and bent it should work. Some very old and worn examples have proven the theory...