-
If that's a crack in that position it'd get the chop. But the GOOD news is that now you could get it cheap and put a new crosspiece onto it - and make a killing. Not literally I hasten to add!
-
-
09-19-2017 06:24 AM
# ADS
Friends and Sponsors
-
Advisory Panel
If that's a crack in that position it'd get the chop.
That'd be fine, you have more to cannibalize from...I'm sure.
-
-
-
Contributing Member
An alternative to the cross-piece being partially welded near the handle is that it has started to crack and someone has tried to be "clever" and has drilled a hole at the end of the crack to stop the crack progressing. This is a practice that is/has been used in the aircraft industry but this is probably a good example of where not to use this technique. I have used this technique very occasionally, over the years, on other applications where I have needed to stop a crack in metal progressing. It can work if you are able to find the end of the crack and drill the hole just beyond where the crack finishes.
-
-
Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
Flying10uk
someone has tried to be "clever" and has drilled a hole at the end of the crack to stop the crack progressing.
I would just have ground a groove along the crack and made good with wire feed...like Peter said. Then clean and blue. I guess drilling is the same idea as a curved corner compared to a square corner. Like the M1
rifle op rod, where the crack would form. The drilled hole allows the stress to relieve.
-
-
Contributing Member
Yes, in this case it would be too little too late if that's what was done.
-
-
Not strictly relevant to this case but...... Drilling a hole in sheet steel to stop a crack traveling further is really a palliative and not a cure because the crack is STILL there! You can drill it and weld it up but it WILL crack again, this time down the side of the weld! You have to remove the fatigue that caused it in the first place. How do I know this? Nothing that you can learn at Uni but only something you can gain with experience and learning from older metallurgists - AND owning an MGB GT or Midget where the doors fatigue down the quarterlight line EVERY time you close them. It puzzled the designers at PSF in Swindon for years
-
The Following 3 Members Say Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
-
Contributing Member
I believe the practice in the aircraft industry was/is to drill at the end of the crack and then rivet, not weld, a generously sized aluminium plate over the top of the crack. It was an old boy in a car body shop who made me aware of this technique and the only University either he or I have ever been to is the University of life.
-
-
Dated '75? Makes it an SMG bayonet?
Yes SMG bayonet that's had the grips replaced
-
The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to Buccaneer For This Useful Post:
-
............. You've lost me! It's a No5 bayonet surely? The actual B1 part number hasn't changed since the first VAOS list - except to change to the newer NSN. B3/ is SMG's and B1/ for rifles. Or am I missing something
-
Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
-
Contributing Member
............. You've lost me! It's a No5 bayonet surely? The actual B1 part number hasn't changed since the first VAOS list - except to change to the newer NSN. B3/ is SMG's and B1/ for rifles. Or am I missing something
Dealers prefer to have a SMG bayonet, or what they may call a SMG bayonet, because they can charge significantly more money for them than if it is just a humble No5 bayonet. The real "Holy Grail" of SMG bayonets, I assume, are the ones with "Sterling" etched on the blades. The so called SMG bayonets that I have seen for sale seem to have around a £100 premium on them over No5 bayonets which is why I haven't bothered with getting one.
-
PM
