ERRRRRR !!! No1 Mk3 Forend Problem

[Daan Kemp]

It would be interesting to have facts about LE butts screws unscrewing. I have put literally thousands of military rounds through my No 1 Mk III and the butt is still as tight as when I first got the rifle.

[Peter Laidler]

Of course you're won't unscrew Dan, the squared shank is locked. Nor does the No4 where the complicated stock bolt was simplified and the locking plate deleted. It was never (?) real Armourers that knackered the No1 rifle fore-ends. It was the enthusiastic amateur/tinkerers/home 'gunsmiths' brigade that did that. Mind you in my opinion, these enthusiastic amateurs.............. You know what's coming next so I'll shut up! The Indians had clearly had enough of the stupidity too and deleted it from their later No1 rifle fore-ends.

Apart from that, what facts do you need Dan. Sometimes rifle collectors are not unlike the most nerdy concourse car owners. I have a couple of old cars and like rifles or any weapons, I say reliability, maintainability and durability over concourseability every time. That's my rant for today

As a sort of PS...... If you REALLY want to make the butt tight. Remove ALL the Grease XG290 that the Armourer left there previously, replace bolt, tighten it up and then patrol he coast where the mangrove swamps are. Immerse rifle a few times and in 3 months the stock bolt will be rusted solid in the butt and body. Never to be removed without the aid of a hack-saw! Take to Armourers shop and tell them that you got it like that.

[Flying10uk]

, it was a simple fix without having to remove the fore-end and all that palava. In any case, a slight amount of looseness will be taken up by the tightness of the tapered butt in the butt socket and the fact that the double coil thackray spring washer will take up a bit of slack

Just do what Armourers and those sensible shooters/owners have been doing since pontius was a pilot. Grind the squared end off, put a double coil spring thackray washer in - as per the No4 and be done with it

Peter, are you able to explain, please, how to remove the stock bolt on the smle in order to grind the flats off without first removing the fore-end and without forcing the bolt out because it is held tight by the locking plate in the end of the fore-end?

The thoughtful use of those spring washers in the No.4 series was certainly the "fix".

No more messing around with "quarter-turn" increments on the big butt screw, no more split fore-ends (at least from that cause, anyway).

Bruce seems to think it an excellent idea but I can't figure out how you remove the stock bolt in order to grind off the flats unless the fore-end is first removed, unless, off course, you force the bolt out which is what you are trying to prevent in the first place.

[CINDERS]

It will never happen F10 the locking plate will spread and split the rear of the stock how many have we seen over the years here there is nothing for it but to remove the fore end then either grind or hacksaw the offending protrusion off...........besides that whilst your faffing about docking the bolt you may as well give the fore end a RLO or BLO which ever mix you use and it can soak overnight before you re-assemble.

I am with Peter on this if the rifle is shooting well then leave it be as sometimes fiddling can just upset the way things are..........

[Flying10uk]

Have you changed your name by deed-poll to "Peter", CINDERS? Peter suggested that the stock bolt could be removed without the removal of the fore-end, not me. I am asking him, not you, how to do this.

[Brian Dick]

He was speaking about the No.4.

There's nothing wrong with the original SMLE stock bolt system in my humble opinion. Armourers were trained to remove the forends before unscrewing the stock bolt. So many shooter/collectors just get out the screwdrivers and tear into things with no reference or study. I have a little booklet available, ( I know, shameless plug), that details everything you need to know about fitting the SMLE forend. After you've broken out the rear of your forend, then buy the book while you're looking for a replacement which are getting expensive and hard to find. God forbid having the knowledge on your bookshelf for the meager sum of $20 and studying a bit before diving into the home workshop.

[CINDERS]

I put a huge thread in reply to #15 but thought better of it as I am only lowering my self but I will say this there is no need for anyone here to be so rude and show such abjection to those that are trying to help, how many times do you think Peter Laidler has been asked that particular question F10 probably more times than you and I have been to the sh*thouse for a No.2.

abjection ~ 1.the condition of being servile, wretched, or contemptible.
2.the act of humiliating. (To save you looking it up F10)

Thanks Brian I have one of those little books.

[Bill Hollinger]

Hey fellas, let's please keep this civil. There is so much we all can learn from a wonderful group of folks here.

F10, many folks answer questions on the forums that are not directed at them. It's what we do here. We try to help any and all.

So pleasy guys, let us get back to the thread and it's intended purpose and enjoy what milsurps.com has to offer us all.

That is all.

[Flying10uk]

it was a simple fix without having to remove the fore-end and all that palava.

Peter, you implied, in post 8, that there is a way of removing the stock bolt in order to grind the flats off without removing the fore-end. Are you able to confirm if this is the case and if there is a way would you explain how, please.

This is the same question that I asked in my post 13 but phased slightly differently.


Once the flats are removed is it necessary to retain the locking plate in the fore-end or to put it another way does it serve any purpose in tying the back of the fore-end together?

[CINDERS]

Thanks Bill.
I wont have to suffer F10 anymore I have "ignore listed" him so he can rant all he wants.....